东周至西汉楚地袍服结构探析

Study on the Gowns Structure of Chu State From Eastern Zhou Dynasty to Western Han Dynasty

中国古代历史中,楚汉服饰文化之间有着明显的传承关系。同时,服装结构设计是决定服装形制的重要因素之一。因而,对服装结构设计的传承关系研究,是认识楚汉时期服饰历史的重要组成部分。文章运用考古学、文献学的观点,实物与文献互证、服装复原、图形绘制的研究方法,以湖北江陵马山一号楚墓和湖南长沙马王堆一号汉墓出土实物为例,对其典型袍服结构、楚汉袍服结构的继承与演变关系进行分析。研究发现:古人巧妙运用省道转移、正裁斜拼、加宽缘边等结构设计手法,使服饰贴身舒适、紧裹蔽体、便身利事;多幅拼接、减少分割,尽量使用整幅面料,即便对面料偶有分割,也是出于某种特殊需求,既“惜物善用”又“重己役物”,同时充分考虑服饰与人体的关系;在结构设计中引入三维空间思维;增加门襟拥掩量以满足“蔽体为美”的审美和实用需求,是楚汉袍服结构设计的共同特征。

In ancient Chinese history,there is an obvious inheritance relationship between Chu and Han costume cultures.At the same time,the design of clothing structure is one of the important factors that determines the shape of clothing.Therefore,the study of the inheritance relationship of clothing structure design is an important part of understanding the history of clothing in the Chu and Han Dynasties.By using archaeological and documentary viewpoints,physical and documentary evidence,costume restoration,graphic drawing research methods,this article analyzes the typical gown structure and the inheritance and evolution relationship of the Chu and Han gown structure,taking the excavated objects from the No.1 ChuTomb at Mashan in Jiangling,Hubei Province and the Han tomb at Mawangdui in Changsha,Hunan Province as examples.In the first part of the article,the data and structure analysis are carried out on the pure gauze brocade gown and small diamond pattern brocade gown excavated from No.1 ChuTomb at Mashan.The ancient people transformed the flat structure into a three-dimensional structure by transferring the back dart and shoulder dart and adding the cut parts called"xiaoyao".At the same time,after the gown restoration,the article further clarifies the connection between the"xiaoyao"and the body piece,and its function,aesthetics,and the role of the body in the whole piece of clothing.The second part of the article analyzes the structure of straight-front gown and curving-front gown excavated from the Han tomb at Mawangdui,and finds that the ancient people cleverly used zhicaixiepin and different cutting methods in different parts according to the function,making full use of the fabric performance and maximizing the practicality of the garment with relatively simple production process and widening the gown clothing edge of the structure design method,so that the clothing fits comfortably,tightly wraps the body.In the clothing modeling,curving-front gown broke the previous"central symmetry"and"proportional balance"aesthetic rules,adding layers and a sense of space to the clothing.The third part of the article compares the structure and cutting methods of clothing excavated from the two tombs,and speculates that there is continuity in the development of clothing structure at this stage.The common features of the structure design of Chu and Han gowns are:multiple splicing,less division,using the whole fabric as much as possible,even if there is occasional division of the fabric,it is for some special needs,not only"xiwushanyong"but also"zhongjiyiwu",while fully considering the relationship between clothing and human body;They increased the amount of lapel embracing to meet the aesthetic and practical needs of"covering the body as beauty".The people of Chu and Han Dynasty inherited the wisdom of dressmaking,and innovatively used and cleverly transformed the method of dressmaking to design social,functional and aesthetic dresses,leaving us valuable cultural materials of dress.