南宋交领莲花纹亮地纱袍的形制复原研究

Analysis on the style reproduction of the gauze robe with lotus motif in Southern Song Dynasty

为探究南宋服饰的形制结构与工艺特点,以浙江黄岩南宋赵伯澐墓出土的交领莲花纹亮地纱袍为研究对象,在对实物信息充分调研的基础上,对其形制结构进行详细阐述和分析,从而确定排料方式,按纱袍缝制工艺完成整衣复原。复原过程表明,纱袍制作方式秉承了传统裁衣用料上的“节约敬物”原则。其用料方式正反面兼有,提升了面料利用率;其剪裁方式采用面料双层对折,提高了工作效率。其面料上具有方向性的纹样为研究排料方式提供了更为确凿有力的证据。

In order to explore the shape structure and process characteristics of the Southern Song costume the gauze robe with lotus motif in the Southern Song Dynasty excavated from the tomb of Zhao Boyun in Huangyan,Zhejiang was taken as the research object.Based on full investigation of physical information,the shape and system of the gauze robe in detail were expounded and analyzed,so as to determine the arrangement method and complete the restoration according to the sewing process of the gauze robe.The restoration process showed that the way of making gauze robe upholds the principle of saving and respecting things in traditional cutting materials.Its material both positive and negative ways,which improved the utilization rate of fabric.The cutting method adopted double fold of fabric,which improved work efficiency.The directional pattern on the fabric provided more solid and powerful evidence for the study of the layout method.