五溪流域红苗服饰形制演变动因探究

Exploration on the reasons for the evolution of the Hongmiao clothing form in Wuxi basin

红苗属苗族湘西支系,通用苗语湘西方言,为蚩尤后裔,历史上经过几次大迁徙,于秦汉之后相对稳定地聚居在湘、鄂、渝、黔边的五溪流域。两千多年来,五溪红苗服饰从“织绩木皮、染以草实”到“绾髻以簪、百褶翩跹”,其形制随时代发展而演变。文章分析了红苗服饰形制演变的多重动因,认为苗族服饰文化持久弥新的生命力必然依赖于与之相协调的民族文化生境,其形制演变与政治制度和社会环境息息相关,与宗教信仰和民族习俗休戚与共,与族际交往和文化渗透紧密相连,与经济水平及审美观念密不可分。

Hongmiao belongs to the Xiangxi branch of the Miao ethnic group,commonly known as the Xiangxi dialect of the Miao language.It is a descendant of Chiyou and has undergone several major migrations in history.After the Qin and Han dynasties,it relatively stably settled in the Wuxi Basin on the border of Hunan,Hubei,Chongqing and Guizhou.For over two thousand years,Wuxi Hongmiao clothing has evolved from“woven with wooden skin and dyed with grass”to“twisted buns with hairpins,and hundreds of pleats dancing gracefully”,and its form has changed with the times.This paper analyzes the multiple reasons for the evolution of the Hongmiao clothing form,and believes that the enduring vitality of the Miao clothing culture inevitably depends on the coordinated ethnic cultural habitat.The evolution of its form is closely related to the political system and social environment,religious beliefs and ethnic customs,ethnic communication and cultural infiltration,and inseparable from economic level and aesthetic concepts.