乾隆时期南北织局的染色方法初探

A Contrast Analysis between the North-South Royal Weaving Bureaus in Dyeing Process under Emperor Qianlong's Administration

清代共设四个皇家织造局,分别为江南三织造和京内织染局,负责生产宫廷礼仪、生活、赏赐和贸易用的纺织品。经历清初重建和发展,最晚至乾隆时期,南北织局已形成各自生产的特色。仅染色技术而论,江南三织造使用染料种类较多,染色方法不拘一格,色谱丰富;而京内织染局从乾隆至道光时期则采用固定的染色方案,仅使用10种染料5种助剂,复杂的颜色通常使用套色的方法获得,色谱明确。南北织局的染色方法有相同之处,也有不同之处,这种情况与管理体制和地域技术体系有关。

There are four royal weaving bureaus under the supervision of the Qing court,three in the southern Yangtze River(collectively called Jiangnan Weaving Bureau';Jiangnan San Zhizao in Chinese pinyin)and one in the capital of Beijing named Weaving and Dyeing Bureau(Jing Nei Zhiran Ju in Chinese pinyin),responsible of processing textiles specially used for court ceremonial,daily-life as well as royal awarding and trading occasions.The makers in north and south have gone through reconstruction and development from the early Qing to Emperor Qianlong's(隆)period to form the characteristics in craftsmanship of each own.As far as dyeing process is concerned,Jiangnan Weaving Bureau is relatively active in trying any techniques available with a variety of dyestuff to create a diversity of color patterns,whereas the Beijing Weaving and Dyeing Bureau prefers the regularized formulae using 1o kinds of dyestuff with 5 types of auxiliaries for the making of colored-textiles,and meanwhile employing overdyeing process for the complex multicolored production to form a definite color spectrum over the period of Qianlong-Daoguang(乾隆-道光)government.It is viewed in the thesis that the similarities and differences between the north and south weaving-works above mentioned are basically decided by the way that they were administrated officially and the technology system worked regionally.