求“雅”与表“隐”:服装中的“幽玄”审美及其设计方法研究

SEEKING"ELEGANCE"AND EXPRESSING"CONCEIT":STUDY ON THE"YUGEN"AESTHETIC AND DESIGN METHODS IN CLOTHING

聚焦服装领域中的“幽玄”审美,分析其影响的服装设计尺度,探索创新设计方法。梳理“幽玄”审美在中日发展中的关键概念与细微转变,归纳审美背后的诉求及在设计中的表征,总结在服装史中“幽玄”审美的基本表现形式,以20世纪后期的时装设计为例,以东方设计学研究方法切入,提出符合“幽玄”审美意象的基础服装尺度。得出色彩、材质、结构多纬度的“幽玄”审美服装创新设计方法。该方法可为正在发展的本土服装设计品牌提供设计新思路、新方法的借鉴。

To focus on the"YUGEN"aesthetic in the field of clothing,analyze the scale of clothing design influenced by it,and explore innovative design methods.To sort out the key concepts and subtle transformations in the development of the"YUGEN"aesthetic in China and Japan,to summarize the demands behind the"YUGEN"aesthetic and its representation in design,to summarize the basic expressions of the"YUGEN"aesthetic in the history of fashion,and to propose a design approach that is consistent with the imagery of the"YUGEN"aesthetic,taking fashion design of the late 20th century as an example.Taking the fashion design of the late 20th century as an example,we propose a basic clothing scale that conforms to the aesthetic imagery of the esoteric by using oriental design research methods.A multi-dimensional approach to the design of innovative apparel with color,material and structure is developed.The method can be used as a reference for new ideas and methods of design for the developing local clothing design brands.