摘要
当今中国人口老龄化程度日益严峻,中老年人群规模逐渐扩大,与之相关的服装市场也进一步扩大,中老年人群对服装的舒适性和美观性提出了更高的要求。中老年女性相对于青年女性体型,在胸部、腰部、腹部和背部形态等方面存在显著差异,现行国家标准号型规格不能满足中老年人群要求。为此,选取207名中国东部地区50~65岁的中老年女性作为研究样本,采用马丁测量法采集了20项人体尺寸数据,参照国家标准并运用数理统计法得出中老年女性标准体,通过因子分析和相关性分析得到影响中老年女性体型的特征变量,最后通过快速聚类分析法对其体型进行分类。研究结果表明:国家标准号型对中老年女性体型的覆盖率较低;围度因子是影响样本体型差异的主要因素,前后腰节差是影响人体躯干形态的特征变量,身腰比、胸腰差、臀腰差是影响人体高瘦、丰满指数的特征变量;以前后腰节差为基准进行聚类,将中老年女性人体体型分为挺胸体、正常体、微驼背体和驼背体;以腰围、身腰比、胸腰差、臀腰差为基准进行聚类,将中老年女性人体体型分为小X型、H型、小A型和A型,得出各体型聚类指标的取值范围。
Objective Nowadays,China′s aging population is becoming increasingly severe,the size of middle-aged and elderly people is expanding,and so is the related clothing market.Middle-aged and elderly people put forward higher requirements for the comfort and aesthetetics of clothing,and the human body shape is closely related to the structure and shape design of clothing.Among them,the differences between middle-aged and elderly women and young women are significant in the shapes of chest,waist,abdomen and back.This research is proposed to study the body shape characteristics and classification of middle-aged and elderly women.Method In order to further explore the body shape characteristics and distribution of middle-aged and elderly women,207 middle-aged and elderly women aged 50-65 from eastern China were selected as research subjects,and 20 pieces of body size data were collected according Martin′s measurement method.According to the national women′s size standard,the collected data of body shape of middle-aged and elderly women were classified based on the difference of chest and waist and compared with the data of body shape proportion of the national standard to obtain the differences between the standard body shape of middle-aged and elderly women and the standard body shape of adult women.Further factoral analysis and correlation analysis were carried out on the collected data to acquire characteristic variables affecting the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women.Finally,based on the influence factor with the highest correlation,the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women was classified through rapid cluster analysis,and the value range of characteristic variables was calculated.Results Compared with the national standard GB/T 1335.2—2008《Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women》,the proportion of Y and A types decreases while the proportion of B and C types increases,among which the proportion of B type is the highest(Tab.2 and Tab.3).The results of factor analysis showed that circumference factor was the main factor affecting the body shape difference of middle-aged and elderly women,the front and back waist section difference was the characteristic variable affecting the body shape of the torso,the waist ratio,the chest-waist difference,the hip-waist difference was the characteristic variable affecting the body height,slimness and fullness index(Tab.4 and Tab.5).Combined with factor analysis and extraction results of human characteristic variables,clustering was finally carried out from two perspectives,i.e.the difference between front and back waist section difference was taken as a clustering index,and waist,waist ratio,chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference were taken as clustering indexes.The results of K-means fast clustering showed that the human body shape was divided into humpback body,slight humpback body,normal body and chest pull-out body by using the difference of front and back waist as the benchmark.Based on waist circumference,waist ratio,chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference,human body shape was classified into X type,H type,small A type and A type.Finally,the value range of clustering indicators of each body type was obtained(Tab.11 and Tab.12).Conclusion The body shape of middle-aged and elderly women shows an obvious trend of obesity,and the coverage rate for their body shape in the national standard is low,which calls for targeted clothing size standards to be established.Circumference factor is the main factor affecting the body size difference of middle-aged and old women.Through cluster analysis,the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women are divided into four categories from the aspects of trunk shape,and body height,thinness and fullness,and their body shape are subdivided more accurately,providing reference for the establishment of clothing type of middle-aged and elderly women.For future research,it is suggested to increase the sample size of the research subjects to better represent body shape of middle-aged and elderly women,so as to improve the accuracy of body type classification.
作者
刘咏梅
刘思忆
于晓坤
薛惠心
张向辉
LIU Yongmei;LIU Siyi;YU Xiaokun;XUE Huixin;ZHANG Xianghui(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第7期184-191,共8页
Journal of Textile Research
关键词
服装设计
中老年女性
标准体
体型特征
体型分类
聚类分析
fashion design
middle-aged and elderly women
standard body
body shape characteristics
body shape classification
cluster analysis