含锦氨长丝毛精纺面料的纱线纺制及后整理关键工艺改进

Key process improvement in spinning and finishing of worsted fabric blended with polyamide/polyurethane filament

为解决含锦氨长丝的毛纱生产技术难度大、疵点多及其面料整理时易产生折痕和尺寸不稳定等问题,通过优选多组分纤维组合方式、改变长丝退绕工艺和改造纺纱设备等方法改进纺纱工艺,结合后整理采用坯布和干整理2次热定形工艺、平幅洗呢和高速空气撞击柔软工艺相结合等方法,制备一种含锦氨长丝毛精纺面料。对混纺纱线的乌斯特指标和面料的尺寸稳定性、弹性、强力、耐磨性等指标进行测试分析。结果表明:制得的含锦氨长丝的毛精纺面料弹性优良、耐磨性和尺寸稳定性好,易于护理,适合制作各季职业装等服装;含锦氨长丝的毛纱条干CV值、粗细节和毛羽指数达到乌斯特公报5%水平,强力、强度和伸长指标达乌斯特公报5%~50%水平。

In order to solve the problems such as difficult production technology,many defects and easy crease and dimensional instability during fabric finishing,the spinning process was improved by optimizing multi-component fiber combination,changing filament unwinding process and reforming spinning equipment.A wool/polyamide/polyurethane blended worsted fabric was prepared by combining heat-setting twice(grey fabric heat-setting and dry heat-setting),open width washing and high-speed air impact softening.The Uster index of the blended yarn and the dimensional stability,elasticity,strength and abrasion resistance of the blended fabric were tested and analyzed.The results show that the wool/polyamide/polyurethane blended worsted fabrics have good elasticity,abrasion resistance and dimensional stability,and are easy to care for.The fabrics are suitable for making business attire.Evenness CV Value,thick and thin places,hairiness of the blended yarns reach Uster Statistics 5%level,strength and elongation index of yarns reach Uster Statistics 5%-50%level.