织造知识:苗族服饰与博物馆知识生产伦理

Manufacturing Knowledge:Miao Costume and Ethics of Museum Knowledge Production

文章观察在遗产政治与商品经济背景下,苗族服饰如何逐步成为商品和博物馆收藏对象以及因此产生的遗产知识伦理问题。苗族服饰的知识包括制作技术与相关的族群知识体系2个层面,是构成其遗产价值的核心因素。当下,苗族服饰知识与社会经济、遗产政治、文旅发展产生了丰富的联系,并介入了多元行动者。文章以贵州省黔东南地区的苗族服饰为研究对象,分析了苗族服饰知识的主体实践和外在建构所存在的分歧,追踪苗族服饰的传统知识如何在变化的社会文化与经济背景下,经由文化主体、研究者等不同群体之间传递后,出现了差异化的表述方式。表述的分歧不仅影响对作为“非遗”的苗族服饰的价值认知,同时也影响着文化主体对“知识”的理解。而对于当下以成为“接触地带”(contact zone)为宗旨的博物馆来说,这些分歧也可能导致知识生产的伦理问题。

Against the background of heritage politics and commodity economy,the article observes how Miao costumes gradually become the objects of commodity and museum collection,and the ethical problems of heritage knowledge arising therefrom.The knowledge of Miao costume includes two aspects:production technology and related ethnic knowledge system,which are the core factors of its heritage value.At present,Miao costume knowledge has a rich connection with the social economy,heritage politics and development of cultural tourism,and has involved multiple actors.This paper presents the Miao costume in southeastern Guizhou Province as the research object,analyzes the differences in the main practice and external construction of the Miao costume knowledge,and traces how the traditional knowledge of Miao costume is expressed in different ways after being transmitted between different groups such as cultural subjects and researchers,in changing socio-cultural and economic background.Differences in expression not only affect the value cognition of Miao costume as intangible cultural heritage,but also affect the cultural subject’s understanding of“knowledge”.For museums,which today aim to be contact zones,these differences may also raise ethical problems about knowledge production.