文化人类学视域下台湾地区菜的嬗变

The Evolution of Taiwan Residents Cuisine from the Perspective of Cultural Anthropology

饮食文化作为人类最古老的文化之一,是地域文化体系的生动表达。台湾地区菜作为中国文化的重要载体,不仅是中国台湾人社会生活必不可缺的基本要素,且是台湾地区历史变迁与文化展演的见证,蕴含着超越物质性本身的丰富意涵。这一有效讯息需要通过历史文献学视角下的纵向考察及文化人类学层面下的横向研究得到。虽然台湾地区先住民确立了中国台湾人饮食的最初基调,但台湾地区菜的框架与主体乃由明清时期迁居台湾地区的闽南人与客家人所奠定,不断发展融合并延续至今,构成完整的饮食文化体系。虽然日据时期台湾地区菜一度奢靡之风盛行,但光复后很快“由奢入俭”,并经由与内地多种菜系的互动融合,呈现以融合为基础的创新性和“高档餐饮与夜市小吃并存”的层次感。台湾地区菜不仅是中国台湾风物地产的直观展现,且将中国台湾的文化展演过程以一种微观的方式呈现出来,可谓是中国台湾社会发展转型的见证者。

Food culture,as one of the oldest human cultures,is a vivid expression of the regional cultural system.As an important carrier of Chinese culture,Taiwan Residents cuisine is not only an essential element of Taiwan Residents social life,but also a witness to Taiwan’s,China historical changes and cultural performances,containing rich connotations that transcend materiality itself,which can be obtained through vertical examination from the perspective of historical literature and horizontal research at the level of cultural anthropology.Although the first inhabitants of Taiwan,China set the style of Taiwan Residents cuisine,the framework and main body of Taiwan Residents cuisine were established by South Fujian and Hakka people who migrated to Taiwan during the Ming and Qing dynasties,continuously developing and integrating,and continuing to this day,forming a complete culinary cultural system.Although the trend of extravagance in Taiwan Residents cuisine was once prevalent during the Japanese colonial period,it quickly transitioned from extravagance to frugality after its restoration,and,it keeps innovation by integration with various mainland cuisines and developed on different levels from high-end catering to night market snacks.Taiwan Residents cuisine is not only a visual representation of Taiwan’s,China cultural heritage,but also presents the cultural performance process of Taiwan,China in a micro way,making it a witness to the development and transformation of Taiwan’s,China society.