“二战”前后法美时尚转承进程中的夏帕瑞丽高级时装屋

Schiaparelli Haute Couture House During the Transferring Process of French and American Fashion Before and After"World WarⅡ"

为了还原20世纪法、美时尚转承路径,借助文献研究与比较分析的研究方法,解读法、美时尚转承进程中的内外动因与历史必然。以夏帕瑞丽高级时装屋为典型案例,分析夏帕瑞丽在“二战”前后如何通过具有前瞻性的设计风格、运营方式、艺术活动等将法国高级时尚传播至美国市场,并对美国时尚产生深刻影响,进而以点带面地映射20世纪法、美转承互动的时尚进程。研究发现:在法、美时尚转承过程中,美国政治经济的快速发展是主要动力,而“二战”引发的文化、艺术、产业、人才转移、价值观变化则是助推剂,为美国时尚发展创造了必要的科学、技术、文化、艺术条件。

In order to restore the transition path of French and American fashion in the 20th century,this paper compares their development separately,and analyzes the internal and external driving force and necessary elements behind them.At the same time,it highlights the development of Schiaparelli Haute Couture House and analyzes its forward-looking design style,operation method and artistic activities before and after"World WarⅡ",which resonates with the transfer of French and American fashion.Activities and other innovations from French high fashion make profound impact on American fashion,and then reflects the fashion process of the twentieth century's interaction between France and the United States.The study finds that during the process of the transfer,the rapid development of the US political economy as the main driving force,while the culture,art,industry,talent immigration and value changes caused by"World WarⅡ"all contribute to the development of American fashion,which provide necessary conditions from scientific,technological,cultural and artistic aspects.