摘要
17~18世纪,江南工匠所体现的“技进乎道”,实际上标志着工匠社会角色的转型。工匠不再是单纯的工匠,而向着学者的角色转型,开始了对技术原理的探求。“技”(技术)与“道”(科学)有了初步的碰撞,它首先表现为经验型技术向理论型技术转化,以技术的文本化及数理化为主要标志。宫廷在吸收江南织造技术理论的基础上,进一步厘定章程、制定规范,构建了一套建立在“工时料限”基础上的“材—工”质量标准体系,并以“则例”的形式颁行,促成了织造技术的标准化,具体表现为“生产管理标准化”“工艺流程标准化”与“工时料限标准化”。织造技术的文本化、数理化与标准化互为经纬、前后相继,体现了17~18世纪江南织造技术理论化进程的高峰。
In the 17th to 18th centuries,the"Technology Approaches Truth"embodied by craftsmen in Jiangnan actually marked the transformation of the social role of craftsmen.Craftsmen are no longer mere craftsmen,but have shifted towards the role of scholars,beginning to explore the principles of technology.There has been a preliminary collision between"technology"and"truth",which first manifests as the transformation from experiential technology to theoretical technology,with the textualization of technology and the growth of its scientific connotation as the main symbol.On the basis of absorbing the theory of weaving technology in Jiangnan,the court further formulated regulations and norms,constructed a"material labor"quality standard system based on the"labor and material limit",and promulgated it in the form of"regulations",promoting the standardization of weaving technology,which is manifested in three major parts:"management standardization","technical standardization",and"material standardization".Textualization,mathematization,and standardization are intertwined in longitude and latitude,reflecting the peak of the theoretical process of weaving technology in Jiangnan.
作者
常卓
张蓓蓓
Chang Zhuo;Zhang Beibei
出处
《艺术设计研究》
CSSCI
2023年第4期12-19,共8页
Art & Design Research
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目“多元融合的中国古代妇女服饰研究(秦汉至清)”(项目编号:20BG119)
国家社科基金艺术学项目“清代皇家仪仗用具研究”(项目编号:21BG106)的阶段性成果。
关键词
17~18世纪
江南
织造技术
理论化
17th to 18th centuries
Jiangnan
weaving technology
theorization