百工百衣:“礼下庶人”的北宋市井实践

Hundreds of Workers and Clothes:the Practice of"Courtesy to the Common People"in the Northern Song Dynasty

“礼不下庶人”是古代中国统治阶级的一种管理价值表达,而在现实中却存有“礼下庶人”的社会实践。“百工百衣”的服饰伦理形态是坊市制解体后在北宋市井平民阶层形成的一种城市新秩序,其实质是儒家礼化中的一种新型管理生态与社会治理重构。研究认为,“百工百衣”是在其国朝法令规制与礼仪教化下,经行会组织应用约定俗成的行规理路加以具体规范,并在百工自我认知深化和职业自觉培育中呈现的职业服饰风尚。这是中国历史上极具典型的“礼下庶人”之服饰实践。

"Courtesy not to common people"is a kind of management value expression of the ruling class in ancient China,but in social reality,there is practical development of"courtesy to common people"."Hundreds of workers and clothes"is a new urban order formed in the civilian class of the Northern Song Dynasty after the disintegration of the Fangsh(i坊市制)system.Its essence is a new management ecology and social governance reconstruction in the Confucian ritual.According to the research,"hundreds of workers and clothes"is a professional clothing fashion that has been specifically standardized through the application of established rules and regulations by guild organizations under the legal regulations and etiquette education of the Chinese Dynasty,and presented in the deepening of self-awareness and the cultivation of professional consciousness of these professional people.This is a very typical dress practice of"courtesy to common people"in Chinese history.