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库锦中如意纹造型的活态化设计与应用研究

Research on the Living Design and Application of the Ruyi Pattern in Tinselled Brocade
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摘要 库锦作为中国传统织锦之一,具有独特的织造方式、图案组成和文化内涵,如意纹作为库锦中极具特色的纹样之一,拥有自身独有的内涵与样式之美,然而在当下时尚领域中常常局限于传统图案样式以及排列方式,缺乏对库锦中如意纹的创新设计。本文通过文献研究法对库锦中如意纹的传统样本进行纹样以及组织结构等方面的分析,同时运用案例分析法对库锦中如意纹的时尚应用案例进行研究,总结其传统工艺与现代时尚相结合的方法与经验,在延续和传承中国传统文化内涵前提下,拓宽库锦中如意纹样的创新设计思维及应用路线。 As one of the traditional Chinese brocades,tinselled brocade has a unique weaving method,pattern composition and cultural connotation.As one of the most distinctive pattern in brocades,the ruyi pattern has its own unique connotation and stylistic beauty,but in the contemporary fashion field it is often limited to the traditional pattern style and arrangement,and there is a lack of innovative designs for the ruyi pattern in brocade.This paper analyses the pattern and organisation of traditional samples of ruyi patterns in tinselled brocade through documentary research,and uses case studies to investigate the fashion applications of ruyi patterns in tinselled brocades,summarising the methods and experiences of combining traditional craftsmanship with modern fashion,in order to broaden the innovative design thinking and application routes of ruyi patterns in tinselled brocade,while continuing and inheriting traditional Chinese cultural connotations.
作者 李悦 黄永利 LI YUE;HUANG YONGLI(Changshu Institute of Technology,School of Textile Garment&Design,Suzhou Jiangsu 215500,China;City University of Macao,Faculty of Innovation and Design,Macao 999078,China)
出处 《江苏丝绸》 2023年第3期11-17,共7页 Jiangsu Silk
基金 “纺织之光”中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革项目《师生共创品牌互动性与校地产业对接有效性研究》(2021BKJGLX201) 常熟理工学院高等教育研究项目《地方应用型大学设计学科介入美育教育体系研究》(GJ202103)。
关键词 库锦 如意纹 纹样设计 tinselled brocade ruyi pattern patten design
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