傣锦的组织结构与挖梭工艺分析

Analysis on the weave structure and swivel-shuttle technique of Dai brocade

傣锦的织造技艺精湛,所形成的组织结构和工艺特征较为独特,是早期织锦技艺的一种表现形式。汉代以来,傣锦织物在云南傣族中长期盛行,但目前学界缺乏对其组织结构、工艺特征的定性分析与描述,随着传统傣锦织造传承人的减少,傣锦面临失传困境。文章对傣锦的组织结构进行了分析,提出了结合其接结特点对傣锦组织结构进行分类的方法,同时对傣锦的挖梭工艺也进行了研究。研究发现:傣锦一般为纬起花组织,结合其接结特点可分为无结型纬起花组织和地结型纬起花组织两大类;无结型纬起花组织傣锦正反面浮线均不参与接结,织物蓬松、立体感强;地结型纬起花组织傣锦通常采用地经作为接结经对背部浮线进行接结,织物平整性好、坚牢度高;傣锦挖梭工艺可在织物任意位置织上任意颜色的纹样而不受组织结构的限制,大大增加了傣锦纹样的复杂度和色彩的丰富程度。

With the increasing emphasis on the protection of intangible cultural heritage and the rise of ethnic trends,more and more scholars are paying attention to Dai brocade and conducting analysis and research on it.At present,research on Dai brocade mainly focuses on its appearance characteristics such as patterns and colors,as well as its application in modern clothing design.A few scholars have studied the weave structure and process characteristics of Dai brocade,and there is still a need for in-depth analysis of the weave structure and process characteristics of Dai brocade.We studied the weave structure and swivel-shuttle process of typical Dai brocade.Specifically,we analyzed the weave structure of the collected Dai brocade,classified the weave structure of Dai brocade based on its bonding characteristics,and explored the flowering characteristics of Dai brocade with different weave structures.We also analyzed the different swivel-shuttle methods of Dai brocade and the impact of swivel-shuttle process on the appearance and style of Dai brocade.By analyzing the weave structure and swivel-shuttle process of Dai brocade,three major conclusions can be drawn.Firstly,the weave structure of Dai brocade is generally weft-figured weave.Based on its joint characteristics,it can be divided into no-knot-type weft-figured weave and ground-knot-type weft-figured weave,and the ground weave of Dai brocade is generally warp weight flat weave.Second,the no-knot-type weft-figured weave Dai brocade is generally fluffy and has a strong three-dimensional sense.However,due to the unrestricted length of the front and back weft floats,the fabric has low firmness.Nevertheless,the ground-knot-type weft-figured weave Dai brocade usually uses the ground warp as the connecting warp to connect the back weft floats,resulting in high firmness and good flatness of the fabric.Third,the swivel-shuttle method in Dai brocade weaving process can be divided into two types:the float sinking method and the winding method.Both methods can break free from the limitations of weave structure and weave patterns of various shapes and colors at any position,greatly improving the richness of Dai brocade patterns and colors,and avoiding the problem of excessive thickness when there are many types of fabric patterns and wefts.