海南杞方言区黎族织锦工艺及纹样研究

Study of brocade weaving techniques and patterns of the Li ethnic group in the Qi dialect of Hainan

文章在对海南省五指山市、保亭黎族苗族自治县和东方市黎族织锦的田野考察基础上,结合相关文献资料,对海南省杞方言区黎族的织锦工艺、织造原理、织造流程、织锦纹样进行分析研究,辅以显花原理图和传统腰织机的结构示意图,将传统腰织机的部件根据功能不同分为3个部分,从织造技术角度对杞方言区的黎锦织造技艺进行深入分析。研究发现:黎族传统织锦使用传统腰织机,主要分为纬线显花和经线显花两种织造技术,其中黎锦纬线显花,根据显花原理,在上下层经线设置不同的提花格。采用“错格”编排,在上机时主要使用“干”字形绕线架配合“U”形夹使用,织造时多采用挑花织造。黎锦经线显花上机操作与纬线显花基本相同,但在保亭地区多采用6根竹签配合“干”字形绕线架在上机时对纹样进行编排,织造出组织统一、纹样风格多变的黎锦纹样。黎族传统织锦的纹样题材丰富,简洁质朴,因其黎族分布支系不同,织造技艺侧重点不同,纹样的构成特征也不尽相同,故结合不同的织造技艺对黎锦纹样进行分析研究。

Li brocade,with its exquisite skills of spinning,dyeing and embroidering,is a representative minority brocade,and has been included in the national intangible cultural heritage list and the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list respectively,and has received worldwide attention.It is of profound significance to study the weaving techniques and brocade culture of Li brocade.According to the different dialects,the Li ethnic group can be divided into Ha,Qi,Run,Sai,and Meifu dialect areas,and there are rich types of brocade weaving,with different dialect areas focusing on different brocade weaving techniques.Therefore,studying the Li brocade in different dialect areas will not only enrich the study of Li brocade,but also enable the better inheritance and development of Li brocade.To make the study of the weaving techniques and brocade culture of Li brocade more in-depth,we analyzed the diagram structure,process flow and pattern characteristics of Li brocade in the Qi dialect area based on the field investigation of Li brocade in Wuzhishan city and Baoting Li and Miao Autonomous County,Hainan province by combining with relevant literature.Firstly,we classified the Li brocade into warp-patterned brocade and weft-patterned brocade by fieldwork method and literature research method,and sorted out the types of Li brocade weaving according to the division of Li dialect areas.The weft patterning weaving of Li brocade in Qi dialect area is mainly divided into single-sided weaving,double-sided weaving and reverse-sided weaving;the warp patterning weaving is mainly divided into“Tiyang”weaving,warp jacquard weaving and floating jacquard weaving.The weave and process flow were analyzed by combining the modern textile principle and the division of the functional parts of the waist loom of the Li ethnic group.Specifically,as for weft patterning,the“staggered arrangement”technology is employed,and the weave is the weft rib weave with the same opening of the A and B wefts,and the process flow includes the loading operation and the weaving operation.According to the function of the original back-strap loom,the weaving can be divided into four basic steps in the order of“one weft ground”and“one weft pattern”.According to the characteristics of patterns,the face warp and the gear warp are interchanged,and the pattern is shown in the form of three weave points with a long warp float,and the weave structure is the same no matter which group of warp shows color.In addition,we also classified the patterns of Li brocade in the Qi dialect area into human,animal,plant and other patterns,and analyzed the composition elements,style features and characteristic meanings of different types of patterns through the research method of correspondence analysis.Among them,the human pattern is one of the most commonly used patterns of the Li brocade in the Qi dialect area,with various types,including male human patterns,female human patterns,frog-human combination patterns,etc.;animal patterns include frog patterns,bird patterns,crab patterns,turtle patterns,dragon patterns,etc.,with rich variety,different forms and various meanings;plant patterns of the Li brocade in Qi dialect area,both figurative plant patterns,and more abstract and simplified plant patterns,are often used as auxiliary patterns,including tree patterns,patterns,plant patterns and flower patterns;other patterns of Li brocade in the Qi dialect area include geometric patterns,artifact patterns,and Chinese character patterns,usually with simple elements such as dots,lines,and surfaces as the basic unit,are often used as auxiliary patterns with other patterns,playing a role in coordinating the fabric of Li brocade.During their long-term social production work,the Li people have created the unique traditional brocade weaving skills.Though the Li people have no a writing record,Li brocade carries the development and transmission of Li culture and plays an important role in the daily life of the Li people.We will continue to deepen the research of Li brocade techniques,explore more perfect protection measures,and seek ways of inheritance that can adapt to the direction of modern society,so that Li brocade weaving techniques can take on a new life while preserving traditional culture.