川江船帮组织构成和川菜流派分帮演进

On Chuangjiang River Shipping Factions and Evolution of Schools of Sichuan Cuisine

四川宜宾至湖北宜昌段长江被称为川江。清朝中叶随着川江木船航运业兴起,并形成了大河帮、下河帮、小河帮等三个地缘性木船船帮组织,合称为“三河船帮”。20世纪80年代的川菜理论文化书籍在对川菜流派进行划分时,开始陆续出现借用“三河船帮”的帮名来命名川菜流派。但这种划分方法缺乏理论支撑,且不同的学者有不同的划分法,以致形成多种说法,不利于川菜的发展。新时代的川菜,应与时俱进发展,当以泸菜、蓉菜、雅菜等各地方区域菜系作为其风味流派划分的标准。

The part of the Yangtze River between Yibin,Sichuan Province and Yichang,Hubei Prov‐ince is conventionally referred to as the Chuangjiang River.In the middle Qing Dynasty,or around the 18th century,shipping with wooden ships rose as a business here and players of this business soon divid‐ed into three regional factions whose names were borrowed in the 1980s by books on Sichuan cuisine to name the different regional culinary schools.Classifying culinary culture this way,however,is far from well grounded and scholars disagree,resulting in a variety of contending classification theories and names.This impedes development of Sichuan cuisine in general.Sichuan cuisine classification,too,needs to advance with the time.Instead of classifying and naming the dishes after the shipping factions,it is much more reasonable to do so after the names of their hometowns,such as Luzhou cuisine,Chengdu cuisine and Ya’an cuisine.