明代鸟衔花枝纹对襟夹袄形制及制作工艺

On the Shape and Production Technology of Ming Dynasty Mandarin Coat Patterned with Bird Carrying Flower Branches

随着“汉服热”的出现与发展,中国古代服饰文化正在被越来越多的人所了解,其中以“花冠裙袄,大袖圆领”为特点的明代汉服也受到了很多人的关注。为了更好地传承和保护出土文物,让更多的人真正认识和了解明代服饰文化,促进文创服饰系列产品的快速研发,通过对出土文物的深入研究与服饰再现来了解古人的衣着文化。本文选取无锡七房桥钱樟两人墓葬中出土鸟衔花枝纹缎对襟夹袄进行研究,通过对文物及图像考证、综合文献资料,运用计算机辅助设计及Photoshop软件对明代女袄结构款式进行了绘制与分析。通过前一阶段对于夹袄相关资料的整理、文物残片的比较分析,形制、材料等的分析和选择,开展明代早期女装文化综合复原性的研究,最后根据文物样本的要求,完成形制的复原,再现明代鸟衔花枝纹对襟夹袄实物面貌。

With the emergence and development of"Hanfu fever",the Chinese ancient dress culture is being understood by more and more people,among which the Ming Dynasty Hanfu characterized by"flower crown skirt and coat,big sleeves and round neck"has also attracted a lot of people's attention.In order to inherit and protect the unearthed cultural relics better,let more people really know and understand the clothing culture of the Ming Dynasty and promote the rapid development of cultural and creative clothing products,the clothing culture of the ancients is understood through in-depth research of unearthed cultural relics and clothing reproduction.In this paper,the study was carried out by selecting the mandarin coat patterned with bird carrying flower branches,which was unearthed from the tomb of Qian Zhang couple in Qifangqiao,Wuxi.Based on the research of cultural relics and images,comprehensive literature data,computer-aided design and Photoshop software,the structure and style ofMing Dynasty women's coats were drawn and analyzed.Through the collation of related materials in previous stage,the comparative analysis of cultural relics fragments,the analysis and selection of shapes,materials,etc.,the comprehensive restoration of women's clothing culture in the early Ming Dynasty was carried out.Finally,according to the requirements of cultural relics samples,the restoration of shapes was completed,and the physical appearance ofthe Ming Dynasty mandarin coat patterned with bird carrying flower branches was reproduced.