粟特胡腾舞服饰的审美流变探析

Aesthetic Changes in the Costumes of the Huteng Dance in China

舞蹈服饰不仅体现了人体的造型美和情态美,更是折射出不同民族文化下的服饰审美意趣。文章基于胡腾舞相关出土文物,通过对比分析北朝与隋唐时期胡腾舞服饰的审美特征,明晰了胡腾舞服饰审美的嬗变轨迹。北朝时期胡腾舞服饰多沿袭粟特本土服饰审美趣味,以显露男性人体曲线魅力的紧身束袖式服饰为主要特征;隋唐时期胡腾舞受中原汉民族含蓄和隐晦等审美意识影响,通过宽衣、长袖、长帔来营造飘逸的动态美感,体现的是民族交流背景下胡腾舞刚柔相济、力韵互含的交融之美。

Dance costumes not only expresses the beauty of human body in terms of shape and mood,but also reflects the aesthetic interest of costumes under different ethnic cultures.By comparing and analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Huteng dance costumes in the Northern Dynasty and Sui and Tang dynasties,the paper clarifies the trajectory of the aesthetic changes of Huteng dance costumes after its introduction into China.During the Northern Dynasty,the costumes of Huteng dance mostly followed the aesthetic interest of the native Sogdiana costumes,with the tight-fitting and sleeved costumes revealing the charm of male body curves as the main feature,while during the Sui and Tang dynasties,the Huteng dance was influenced by the aesthetic sense of subtlety and obscurity of the Han Chinese,with wide clothes,long sleeves and long capes to create a sense of flowing and dynamic beauty,reflecting the beauty of intermingling the toughness and softness of Huteng dance under the background of ethnic exchange.