清代旗鞋的形制演变特征探析

Analysis of the evolutionary characteristics of the shape of Qixie in the Qing Dynasty

旗鞋作为清代服饰的杰出代表之一,其造型独特、纹饰精美,蕴含对传统美学的解读与传承,有着极高的艺术研究价值。文章以清代旗鞋为研究对象,基于实物藏品图片与史料文献,通过图文互证法、归纳对比法,梳理总结出旗鞋各时期的形制演变特征。研究表明:旗鞋的形制演变在造型上呈现鞋底高度增加、形式逐渐多样化的特征;纹样上呈现题材内容增多、图样艺术化增强的特征;色彩上呈现饱和度增加、用色趋于多元化的特征;工艺上呈现装饰品增多、制作更加复杂化的特征。以期通过此次研究深入了解旗鞋,并为清代足服文化乃至服饰文化的研究提供一定理论参考。

As a monarchical dynasty established by a minority ethnic group,the Qing Dynasty exhibited characteristics of multicultural assimilation under the rule of Manchu aristocracy.Costumes during this dynasty were elaborate and highly distinctive.As one of the outstanding representatives of clothing in the Qing Dynasty,Qixie possesses utmost artistic research value on account of its unique shapes,exquisite patterns,as well as its interpretation and inheritance of traditional aesthetics.However,there is currently a limited amount of systematic research dedicated to Qixie,which results in insufficient understanding of its evolution,structural features,and the cultural significance behind it.Therefore,studying the evolutionary characteristics of Qixie’s structure can contribute to a better understanding of footwear culture during the Qing Dynasty and provide valuable theoretical reference for the study of costume culture.In this study,we took Qixie of the Qing Dynasty as the research object and summarized its morphological evolution characteristics and developmental rules among different periods based on the pictures of collections and historical documents with the methods of mutual proof between pictures and texts and inductive contrast,and drew two important conclusions.First,the appearance of Qixie is not accidental and its structural evolution aligns with the dynamic changes in society.From a historical perspective,before the Manchu people entered the Central Plains,the shoe styles for Manchu women were mainly shared by both men and women,including three types:wula,boots,and wooden-soled shoes.After the Manchu people entered the Central Plains,the shoe styles for Manchu women transitioned to pointed-toe shoes and Zao shoes with a characteristic of“thick flat soles”.During the mid-Qianlong period in the early Qing Dynasty,tall-soled Qixie,known as“flowerpot-bottomed shoes”,started to emerge.In the mid-to-late Qing Dynasty,Qixie became more diverse,featuring flowerpot-bottomed shoes,ingot-bottomed shoes,and horseshoe-bottomed shoes,each with distinctive characteristics.Throughout this development,there is a certain correlation between the shoe styles of Manchu women in different periods:both before and after the Manchu people entered the Central Plains,the shoe styles were wooden-soled shoes,and the difference between boots and pointedtoe shoes,and Zao shoes was only the presence or absence of boot cuffs.Second,Qixie holds high artistic value,and its structural evolution follows a pattern.Classification based on aspects such as shape,patterns,colors,and craftsmanship reveals the following characteristics:Qixie has a unique structural design,with cleverly arranged and meaningful patterns,harmonious color combinations,exquisite craftsmanship,and ingenious decorations.The thickness of soles and diversification of shapes increased.The themes of dermatoglyphic pattern diversified and became more artistic.The color was more saturated and continuously enriched.And the ornaments were abundant and tended to be more complexed.Throughout this process,Qixie transitioned from being primarily utilitarian to becoming aesthetically pleasing,evolving from a simple and elegant style to a more elaborate and magnificent style.There is no conclusive evidence regarding the origin and evolution process of Qixie,and the academic community has not reached a consensus.We collected over 700 images of physical artifacts of Qixie as research samples.We comprehensively employed research methods from the discipline of art,and other approaches to explore the evolutionary characteristics of Qixie’s structure from the perspectives of historical changes and structural features.Through the in-depth understanding of Qixie in this study,we aimed to provide certain theoretical support for the study of footwear culture and even clothing culture in the Qing Dynasty.