凸肚体男正装的结构设计与验证

Structural Design of Men s Formal Wear With Convex Belly

以“肚量、肚省”为切入点,分析总结出男性体型特征与肚量、肚省的关联性;归纳了全息原型法的“凸肚体”男正装结构设计思路和肚省处理方法。以“双排扣男正装大衣”为例,通过CLO-3D试衣软件、真人实验和主客观评价验证了本结构设计方法的可行性,得出了“肚量、肚省是影响正装款男装造型结构的重要因素,特别对凸肚体的塑型、视觉弱化肚子的隆起起关键作用”这一结论。本方法有效解决了凸肚体着正装常见的前领豁口、前中起吊等衣身不平衡问题,达到视觉美观的目的,其技术与造型优势可对男正装制版中的“凸肚”难题提供参考。

With“belly size and belly dart”as the starting point,this paper analyzed and summarized the correlation between male body shape characteristics and belly size and belly dart.It also summarized the structural design idea and belly dart treatment method of men s formal suit by“holographic prototype method”.Taking“double-breasted men s formal coat”as an example,the paper verified the feasibility of this structural design method by CL O-3D fitting software,real experiment and objective and subjective evaluation.It is concluded that belly size and belly dart are important factors affecting the structure of formal men s clothing.Especially,they play key roles in shaping and visually weakening the convex belly.It effectively solvesd the problems of unbalance such as front collar gap,front middle lifting and so on,which are common in convex body suits,so as to achieve the purpose of visual beauty.The technical and modeling advantages can provide reference for the“bump”problem in the male formal suit design.