折叠泡绉织物的织造工艺

Technique and weaving of seersucker with folded crepe effect

为了丰富起泡织物的类型,研制折叠泡绉织物,从经、纬纱2个维度分析现有泡泡纱起泡的局限性,依靠泡经向前的卷取力克服弹簧施加的制动阻力矩而释放泡经起泡是消极送经方法,传统织机仅通过人工调节弹簧力臂泡地比,不易精确控制阻力矩,因而送经时刻和送经量不易精确控制,导致泡绉高度不易调节,形状不稳定。通过研制积极式泡经张力控制装置,利用多臂织机的空闲综页的升降控制泡绉经纱张力变化,纹板指令控制该页综升降时刻和间隔时间;2纵泡条间平纹夹持力限制了泡泡区纬浮线高度变化从而影响起泡,改用纬浮长线较长的蜂巢组织代替平纹作间隔区。通过研制积极式综页起绉装置和蜂巢组织作泡泡纱间隔区,使得起绉时间和起绉高度精确可控,设计并制备具有波浪和折叠形态的泡绉布,补充制备织物的风格和应用范围。

In order to develop the folded crepe fabric,the limitations of present seersucker were analyzed from the two dimensions of warp and weft.It was found that the method of releasing the warp length by overcoming the braking resistance exerted by the spring by the take up force of the bubble warp forward is difficult to accurately control the resistance force to change ratio of bubble by simply adjusting the spring force arms manually,therefore,it is difficult to accurately control the let-off time and quantity,resulting in the height of the wrinkle is not easy to adjust and the shape is unstable.To solve this problem,active control device for warp tension was developed.The warp tension was controlled by the idle heald of the dobby loom,and the lifting time and interval of the heald were controlled by the card order.The weft dimension analysis found that the clamping force of the plain weave between the two longitudinal foam strips has restrict the height change of the weft float line in the bubble zone,thus affecting the blistering.Instead of the plain weave,the honeycomb with longer weft float line was used as the spacing area.Through the development of active wrinkling movement device come from the heald as well as honeycomb acted as the interval of the seersucker,the wrinkling time and height can be accurately controlled,and the wrinkling cloth with wave and folded shape can be developed.