新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(Ⅱ)——双凝胶体系

New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics(II) Bigel system

双凝胶体系是一种在不添加(或少量添加)表面活性剂的情况下,将一种液体以凝胶的形式(如油凝胶或水凝胶)分散在另一种与其不相容的凝胶(如水凝胶或油凝胶)中的特殊乳化体系。该体系兼具水凝胶和油凝胶的双重优势,不仅能同时递送亲水性和亲油性物质,而且展现出比单一凝胶更优异的性能。加之体系中不含(或含少量)表面活性剂,不会引起对敏感肌肤的刺激和脱水问题,使其在化妆品领域具有广阔的应用前景。本文首先介绍了凝胶及双凝胶体系;总结了影响双凝胶体系性质的因素,包括凝胶剂、油/水凝胶比例、油脂性质以及制备工艺等;归纳了双凝胶产品的皮肤安全性、稳定性、锁水保湿性、缓释性及肤感等。在此基础上,阐述了双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用的研究进展。最后指出了目前双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用中所面临的问题,并对后续亟待解决的问题提出了个人看法,旨在为性能优异的双凝胶产品的开发及应用提供基础信息,为双凝胶体系的发展方向提供参考。

Bigel system is a unique emulsion system,in which a liquid in gel form(organogel or hydrogel) is dispersed in another incompatible gel(hydrogel or organogel) without adding(or a small amount of) surfactant.Bigel system has the dual advantages of both hydrogel and organogel,which can not only deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents simultaneously,but also show better performance than either of the single gel.In addition,the bigel system does not contain(or a small amount of) surfactant,which will not cause the stimulation and dehydration of sensitive skin.The bigel system has a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics,biomedicine,etc.In this paper,the gel and bigel systems are firstly introduced and then the factors of affecting the properties of bigel system including gel agent,the ratio of organogel to hydrogel,oil properties and preparation process,etc.are summarized.Furthermore,the skin safety,stability,moisture retention,sustained-release property and skin sense of bigel system are expatiated.On this basis,the study on the application of bigel system in cosmetics is expounded.Finally,the limitations of the application of bigel system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed,which can provide not only basic information for the development and application of bigel products with excellent performance but also reference for the development direction of bigel system.