摘要
随着时代的发展,“以白为美”思潮在近几年迎来了高涨期,美白市场空前繁荣。黑色素合成代谢过程在很大程度上调控着皮肤的颜色,因此美白剂的开发主要依赖于活性物质对黑色素的调节作用。本文将黑色素的合成、转运以及代谢过程细分为以下五个步骤:1)黑素细胞内黑素小体的装配;2)黑素小体的成熟及黑素的合成;3)成熟的黑素小体向黑素细胞树突状远端移动;4)黑素小体转移至角质形成细胞;5)黑素小体在角质形成细胞中的再分布或降解、排出。结合以上五个步骤的最新研究进展对其关键机制、重要标志物以及检测方法进行总结阐述,为美白剂的开发提供更加具体且科学的理论基础及开发思路。
With the development of the times,the market demand of whitening agent is increasing day by day,which has a high development value.Skin color mainly depends on the proportion of true melanin and brown melanin,as well as the number,size,distribution and degree of melanization of melanosomes,so the development of whitening active substances mainly depends on the process of melanin production.Based on this,this paper focuses on the literature reports in the past few years,summarizes and discusses the latest progress in the regulation process of melanin production in five steps,and summarizes the key regulation signal pathways,important markers and their detection methods from the regulation mechanism.It provides a theoretical basis for the development of whitening products from a more comprehensive and specific perspective.Finally,with reference to the action mechanism of different stages of melanogenesis,the different ways and current research progress of the development of whitening active components are summarized.The combined use of whitening active ingredients can play a greater whitening effect to a certain extent,and it has gradually become the development trend of whitening agents.This paper can provide a reference for melanin production through the regulation of different stages of melanin,and provide a more scientific research and development direction for whitening products.
作者
杨小玉
刘金俊
刘蕾
何聪芬
毕永贤
李昊
Xiaoyu Yang;Jinjun Liu;Lei Liu;Congfen He;Yongxian Bi;Hao Li(Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development,School of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Zhejiang Yige Enterprise Management Group Co.,Ltd,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310000,China)
出处
《日用化学工业(中英文)》
CAS
北大核心
2023年第10期1194-1203,共10页
China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics
基金
2022年北京工商大学科研能力提升项目。