作为时尚文化基础设施的小红书与时尚观念的重塑——基于三类时尚博主的田野研究

Xiaohongshu Emerging as a Fashion Cultural Infrastructure and Reshaping Fashion Ideals:A Qualitative Research of Three Types of Fashion Bloggers

通过对两名小红书(前)工作人员、七位MCN机构工作人员和38位时尚博主展开质性田野调查,本文发现,在时尚领域,小红书平台的基础设施化发展引致时尚博主这一劳动类型的复杂变动和极速重构,并深刻重塑社会时尚观念。小红书内外部日益加深的数据化运营、商业化模式、女性化定位的运营逻辑使得时尚博主分化为三类。前两类是在小红书之前已经以全职或兼职的方式推广时尚品牌的“老博主”,其面对小红书的态度可分为逢迎的“弹性老博主”以及拒绝的“顽固老博主”;第三类则以“数字土著”存在的“平台新博主”,其时尚产品的知识结构由其数字营销经验所建构。由于算法的不可见性、MCN机构的高度介入、平台后的平台(即小红书蒲公英)的“若隐若现”,平台的运作机制对绝大多数MCN机构员工和个体网红博主而言均不透明;在此情况下,更为抽象的“网感”、流量词、数据化运营等惯习,重新定义了新平台博主的时尚想象。

Changes in labor specialization can stem from developments in industrial structure,changes in factors of production,employment structure,employment relationships,and transaction costs.The development of digital platforms has also led to the differentiation of labor types,which has become a topic of increasing attention.This paper conducts an empirical study on several Xiaohongshu(former)staff members,two MCN agency staff members,and 38 fashion bloggers to show that the expansion of Xiaohongshu has directly led to the professional differentiation of fashion Labor.This paper posits that Xiaohongshu's data-driven operations,business model,and feminine focus have directly led to the categorization of fashion bloggers into three main groups.The first two categories encompass"established bloggers,"who have been promoting fashion brands either full-time or part-time before the advent of Xiaohongshu.Their attitudes towards Xiaohongshu can be further subdivided into"flexible established bloggers,"who are open to Xiaohongshu,and"resolute established bloggers,"who resist it.The third category is the"new bloggers"group,comprising"digital natives."Their understanding of fashion is primarily shaped by their digital practices.Moreover,due to the opaque nature of algorithms,the significant involvement of MCN agencies,and the invisibility of the platform behind the platform,the operational mechanisms of the platform remain unclear to most MCN agency employees and individual bloggers.