葛布制作工艺考辨——以孔府旧藏本色葛袍布料为例探讨

A study on the craft of ko-hemp cloth production-Centered on the original color ko-hemp fabric of the robe in the old collection of Confucius Mansion

山东曲阜孔子博物馆馆藏中有一件明代本色葛袍,葛袍由葛布制作,宽松透气。葛布,我国古人多于夏季穿着。葛布的生产最早可追溯至新石器时代,主要是用葛藤的纤维编织而成。葛布生产工艺基本可分为采葛、浸葛、煮葛、晒葛、绩葛、织葛,细葛布的生产工序可达数十道,在制作细节上也更为讲究。孔府旧藏本色葛袍所用的葛布为明代细葛布的代表。细葛布的生产工艺现主要见于古代史料中的零散记录,仅南方部分地区作为地方非物质文化遗产进行宣传、生产。

The Confucius Museum in Qufu,Shandong,has a natural colored ko-hemp robe of the Ming Dynasty in its collection.The robe is made of ko-hemp cloth,which is loose and breathable,and is more worn by ancient Chinese people in summer.The production of ko-hemp cloth can be traced back to the Neolithic Age,and it is mainly manufactured from the fibers of kudzu vine.Kudzu cloth production entails six basic steps:picking kudzu,soaking kudzu,boiling kudzu,drying kudzu,making ko-hemp thread,and weaving ko-hemp cloth.The production process of cloth from fine Kudzu Vine may include dozens of steps,and the production details are also more meticulous.The ko-hemp cloth used in the original colored ko-hemp robe in Confucius Mansion's old collection is a representative of ancient fine ko-hemp cloth.The production process from kudzu vine to fine kudzu cloth is mainly seen in scattered records in ancient historical materials.In some southern areas ko-hemp cloth is publicized and produced as local intangible cultural heritage.