三七总皂苷改善皮肤老化的探究

Improvement of Skin Aging by Panax Notoginsenosides

以传统中药三七中提取的三七总皂苷(panax notoginsenosides,PNS)为原料作用于人体皮肤细胞,并通过人体功效评价试验探究PNS应用于日化产品中改善皮肤皱纹的潜力。细胞试验结果表明,当PNS质量浓度高于2 mg/mL时,细胞活力降低,且在一定质量浓度下能够促进成纤维细胞的增殖;整体而言,PNS对4种自由基的清除能力均弱于VC;然而,其在低质量浓度下(1、0.2 mg/mL)能够更好地保护HaCaT细胞免受UVA的刺激,并且能够改善成纤维细胞中MMP-1及COL-1的表达。后续通过临床试验,也进一步证实了PNS能够较好地改善皮肤弹性及皱纹状况。

In this research,the potential of panax notoginsenosides(PNS,a main constituent extracted from Panax notoginseng),as a raw material for comsmetic products to act on human skin cells to improve skin wrinkles was evalutated by human efficacy tests.The results showed that the PNS decreased cell viability at concentrations higher than 2 mg/mL,and at a certain concentration,it could promote the proliferation of fibroblasts.In brief,the scavenging activity of PNS on 4 free radicals was weaker than that of VC.However,at low concentrations(1,0.2 mg/mL),PNS could protect HaCaT cells against UVA stimulation and increase the activities of MMP-1 and COL-1 in fibroblasts.Furthermore,subsequent clinical trials had further confirmed that PNS could improve skin elasticity and wrinkles.