新修辞学视角下时尚策展的双主线策略模型实践研究

A Practical Study on the Dual-Mainline Strategic Model of Fashion Curating from the Perspective of New Rhetorics

时尚策展是时尚文化生产与传播的重要途径,新修辞学视角的引入能够有力延展时尚策展的话语实践范畴与社会价值导向。本文尝试构建“时装或可穿戴物”与“其它介质化时尚”的双主线解释模式,并分别提取着装人模、场地布景、个体叙述、中间嫁接以及时尚物质、时尚感官、时尚表演的策略要素,以期形成新修辞学视角下具有普遍参照意义的时尚策展整合模型。这样,一方面可以开解时尚符号话语何以巧妙地隐入视觉文本的深层结构之中,以意义生产的象征行动搭建起沟通之维;另一方面,又可以充分开发人类文明公共价值的新型参与机制,发挥时尚策展在知识整合、创造力激活、主体素养培育、公共话语沟通等方面的潜在能量。

Fashion curating is an important way for the production and dissemination of fashion culture,and the introduction of a new rhetorical perspective can effectively extend the scope of discourse practice and social value orientation.This article attempts to construct a dual-main line explanation model of"gar-ments or other wearable objects"and"other mediated fashion",and separately extracts strategic elements of dressed mannequins,venue settings,individual nar-rative,intermediate objects,as well as fashion materialities,fashion sensorium,performing fashion,in order to form a guiding framework of fashion curating with common reference significance from the perspective of new rhetoric.In this way,on the one hand,it can explain why the discourse of fashion symbols subtly hides in the deep structure of visual texts,and build a communication dimension through symbolic actions of meaning production;On the other hand,it can also fully develop a new participation mechanism for the public value of human civilization,and leverage the potential energy of fashion curating in knowledge integration,creativity activation,subject literacy cultivation,and public discourse communication.