对深衣之“衽”的想象与重构——“中国古代深衣考辨”再解读

Imagination and reconstruction of the"Ren"in ShenYi——Re-interpretation of"Ancient Chinese ShenYi Study and Distinguish"

深衣是一种极具中国古代传统文化内涵的服饰,从古至今备受学人关注。长期以来,对深衣形制的考辨与争论,既体现了深衣持久的影响力,也反映出深衣始终缺乏一个明确形象的基本事实。深衣形制是服饰研究的基础性问题,本文拟通过分析传统深衣形制考辨的相关材料,以古代儒者解读的深衣之“衽”为突破点,梳理古人对深衣形制的多种阐释,进而揭示深衣形制考辨所以产生差异的原因及儒者惯用的“以今律古”诠释法。传统儒学大家对深衣之制的解释,其实质是基于本朝服装对古之深衣所作的想象与重构。

ShenYi is a kind of clothing with the connotation of ancient Chinese traditional culture,which has been concerned by scholars since ancient times.For a long time,the debate on the shape and structure of ShenYi not only reflects the lasting influence of ShenYi,but also reflects the basic fact that ShenYi always lacks a clear image.The problem of the shape and structure of ShenYi is the basic problem of clothing research.This paper intends to analyze the relevant materi-als of traditional ShenYi research,and take the"Ren"interpreted by ancient Confucians as a breakthrough point to sort out the various interpretations of ancient ShenYi research,and then reveals the reasons for the differences in ShenYi research and the interpretation method used by Confucians to"Explain antiquity in terms of today".The traditional Confucian scholars'interpretation of the ShenYi shape and structure is actually their imagination and reconstruction of the ancient ShenYi based on the clothing of the age of life.