牦牛绒优可丝混纺纱及织物性能研究

Study on the property of yak wool EcoCosy blended yarn and fabric

探讨牦牛绒与优可丝混纺纱的可纺性及织物性能。基于集聚纺的工艺要求,设计并纺制了牦牛绒/优可丝混纺比为20/80、30/70、40/60、50/50、60/40的30 tex混纺纱。观察了纤维原料的形貌结构,测试了单纤维强伸性能以及不同规格纱线的强力、毛羽、条干。结果表明:与纯牦牛绒纱、纯优可丝纱对比,混纺纱的断裂强度、断裂伸长率、毛羽H值、条干等指标均明显优于纯牦牛绒纱;随着牦牛绒纤维含量的增加,混纺纱的强力、伸长率逐渐降低,毛羽H值呈现先减小后增大的趋势,条干均匀度呈先改善后恶化的趋势。使用模糊综合分析法对各项性能指标进行计算,得出混纺纱的最优混纺比为30/70。最后通过对针织物的基本性能测试分析,验证了混纺纱的织造性能,表明牦牛绒优可丝混纺纱可以生产出性能优异的针织物,具有良好的可加工性。

The spinnability and fabric properties of yak wool EcoCosy blended yarn were discussed.Based on the requirements of condensed spinning technology,30 tex yak wool EcoCosy blend yarns with the blending ratio of 20/80,30/70,40/60,50/50 and 60/40 were designed and spun.By observing the morphology structure of fiber raw materials,the single fiber breaking strength&elongation and the strength,hairiness and evenness of yarn with different specifications were tested.The results showed that the breaking strength,breaking elongation,hairiness H value,evenness and so on of the blended yarn were significantly better than those of pure yak wool yarn and pure EcoCosy yarn.With the increase of yak wool content in blended yarn,the strength and elongation of the blended yarn were gradually decreased.The hairiness index showed a trend of decrease firstly and then increase.The evenness of the yarn was firstly better and then worsen.The fuzzy comprehensive analysis method was used to calculate the various properties.The optimal blending ratio of the yarn was been determined as 30/70.Finally,by analyzing the basic performance tests of the knitted fabric,the weaving performance of the blended yarn was verified.It showed that knitted fabric with excellent properties could be produced by yak wool EcoCosy blended yarn.It had good processibility.