摘要
扎经染色织物的染织方式是染缬工艺研究中的一项特殊内容。文章以日本收藏的公元6—9世纪扎经染色织物为研究对象,通过文献、图像和实物等证据进行对比互证,对这一时期日本收藏的扎经染色织物纹样及其工艺所展现的艺术特征进行归纳,旨在分析其艺术特征与文化意蕴之间的关系。研究结果表明,日本藏公元6—9世纪扎经染色织物纹样题材丰富,不仅展现了东西方纹样风格及技术的沟通交流,还体现出其染织工艺在视觉上所形成的模糊效果与当时在日本所兴盛的密教有相符的审美意境。
shapes and symbols that convey a sense of religious belief and mysticism,which are closely related to Japan’s religious culture and aesthetic concepts.At the same time,the dyeing and weaving techniques used in warp ikat-dyeing showcase the artistic characteristics of the rationality of technique and the sensibility of art.The patterns of these textiles,presented under strict mathematical relationships,display a vague visual effect of unevenness,overlapping,interlacing,and indistinctness,which gives them a mysterious quality.This has also become a carrier for expressing a sense of aesthetic realm and is consistent with the Buddhist form of esoteric Buddhism,with cultural implications that are similar to the Chinese philosophical tradition of“observing things and taking them as examples”.In summary,in the context of the flourishing decorative patterns during the Tang Dynasty,the dyeing and weaving technique of ikat incorporated plant and animal motifs from the Western Regions and the Central Plains,which,when combined with its own dyeing and weaving techniques,conveyed a language of ikat dyeing that was consistent with the characteristics of Tantric Buddhism.Notably,Buddhism frequently manifests itself to the world through artistic works,providing a means not only for the inheritance and development of warp ikat dyeing techniques but also for highlighting the religious spirit of influencing people’s hearts through intrinsic culture,thereby showcasing the unique vitality of warp ikat-dyed fabrics.By studying these ancient dyed and woven fabrics,we can gain a better understanding of the social background and cultural atmosphere of the era,as well as promote the inheritance and dissemination of this distinct cultural heritage.
作者
王可
WANG Ke(Dunhuang Clothing Culture Research and Innovation Design Center,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第11期126-135,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
北京市社会科学基金青年项目(20YTC028)。
关键词
扎经染色
染织工艺
纹样
纺织品
日本
密教
warp tie-dyed
dyeing and weaving process
patterns
textiles
Japan
Tantric Buddhism