承唐启宋的五代十国幞头形制及其成因

The form and origin of Futou in the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms betweenthe Tang and Song Dynasties

五代十国是幞头形制变化的重要时期,为研究该时期幞头形制的流变及其原因,文章通过图像与文献互为印证的二重证据法,在对该时期幞头形制进行分类分型研究的基础上,分别将其与唐代、宋代的幞头形制进行对比。研究表明:现有图像中的五代十国幞头形制主要可分2类17型。其中,圆顶顺风脚、圆顶长脚2型软裹软脚类幞头继承自盛唐;硬裹硬脚中的圆、方顶圆翅,圆、方顶翘脚4型继承自晚唐;其余11型为时代新创,成为宋代幞头形制发展的重要基础。该时期幞头形制在唐宋之际的流行更替、服用者身份从随意到规范的转变,表现出了清晰的继承、创新和发展脉络,具有承唐启宋的重要历史过渡价值。政治多元化的影响、世俗文化渐兴的推动和工艺技术发展的助力是过渡性产生的主要原因。

Futou is one of the most important forms of headdress in ancient China,originating from the late North and South Dynasties,finalizing in the Sui Dynasty,and used from the Tang Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty,with a period of more than 1000 years.The Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms were between the Tang and Song Dynasties,and Futou formations were repeatedly innovated during this period,making it the most significant period of change in Futou formations in history.Through the twofold evidence method of mutual corroboration between images and documents,we drew three important conclusions based on the classification and typology study of Futou forms of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms by comparing them with those of the Tang and Song Dynasties respectively.Firstly,the existing images of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Futou form can be divided into two categories and 17 types.Among them,the two types of Futou,namely round-topped type with tailwind feet,and round-topped type with long feet,were softly wrapped ones with soft feet inheriting from the glorious age of Tang Dynasty;the four types,namely hard wrapped ones with hard feet,round top and round wrings,hard wrapped ones with hard feet,square top and round wrings,hard wrapped ones with hard feet,round top and raising feet,and hard wrapped ones with hard feet,square top and raising feet,inherited from the Late Tang Dynasty;the 11 types of Futou respectively with round top and tailwind feet,square top and tailwind feet,round top and heavenward feet,square top and heavenward feet,round top and crossing feet,square top and crossing feet,round top and straight feet,square top and straight feet,square top and curled feet,square top and circular feet,and zero feet were new creations of the era,and these Futous also became the important basis for the development of Futou forms in the Song Dynasty.Second,Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms’Futou forms change in popularity between the Tang and Song Dynasties,the transformation of the identity of the wearer from being casual to being standardized show a clear vein of inheritance,innovation and development,with an important historical transitional value of carrying on the Tang and starting the Song.Third,the evolution of the costume civilization conforms to the general law of historical development,the continuity of history contributes to the inheritance of the costume civilization,and the change of history brings about the change of the costume civilization.The Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms’Futou forms partially continued those of the Tang Dynasty,demonstrating the inheritance of costume civilization;the basis for the development of the Song Dynasty Futou form was mainly reflected in the“change”of the Futou form in this period.Therefore,the variety of forms was the root cause of the historical transition of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms Futou in the historical interval of the Tang and Song Dynasties,and the reason for this root cause was closely related to the social environment of the time.Social upheaval resulted in political pluralism,which prompted a variety of variants of the Futou form as a symbol of political rights.The rise of secular culture,which incorporated the aesthetic tastes of all classes,drived the innovation of Futou forms.The development of the lacquer-coating process facilitated changes in the shape of the Futou and contributed to the innovation of the Futou form.Based on the re-combing of previous research results on Futou forms and the overall examination of heirloom materials,the article takes the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms as the focus of the era,and systematically and deeply researches the Futou forms of the period,perfecting the access information on the evolution of Futou forms in the Tang and Song Dynasties.It not only enriches the research content of Futou,but also meets the need for coherent research on the two differentiated dress styles of the Tang and Song,while deepening the understanding of the costume culture of the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms,and is an unavoidable and important part of the in-depth study of the costume culture of the Tang and Song,as well as the study of the costume culture of the Ten Kingdoms of the Five Dynasties.