摘要
为探究组织结构设计参数对纬编3D凹孔针织物保暖性能的影响,拓展3D凹孔针织物在保暖服装中的应用。首先运用控制变量与正交试验法,采用DRYAERN^(■)纱线与氨纶纱线,改变组织循环内吊针路数、连续成圈针数及平针路数3个设计参数,织造成15种3D凹孔针织物,测试其厚度与克罗值;其次基于响应曲面法分析3个参数对织物保暖性能的影响并建立关于克罗值的数学回归模型。结果表明:3个参数中对织物保暖性能影响最为显著的是吊针路数,其次是平针路数,最小的是连续成圈针数;连续成圈针数与平针路数的交互作用对织物保暖性能有显著影响,相关回归模型的拟合精度较高;研究为开发保暖性能优良的3D凹孔针织物提供了高效的工艺参数方案。
This paper tends to study the relationship between tissue structure design parameters and the warmth retention properties of 3D concave weft-knitted fabric.By adopting the control variable and orthogonal experiment method,using DRYARN^(■)yarns and spandex yarns,15 kinds of 3D concave weft-knitted fabrics were developed by changing the three design parameters,namely,the number of suspended stitch systems in a tissue cycle,the number of consecutive coils needles and the number of plain stitch systems,and the surface density,thickness and clo value were tested.Based on the response surface method,the influence of these three design parameters on the warmth retention property of the fabric was analyzed and the mathematical regression model of Clo value was established.The results show that the significant order of the influence of the three parameters on the warmth retention property of the fabric is as follows:the number of suspended stitch systems,the number of plain stitch systems,and the number of consecutive coils needles,and.The interaction between the number of consecutive coils needles and the number of plain stitch systems also has a significant influence on it.Meanwhile,the regression model has high fitting accuracy of fabric thermal performance.This study provides an efficient process parameter scheme for the development of 3D concave knitwear with excellent thermal performance,aiming to expand the application of 3D concave knitwear in thermal clothing.
作者
王建萍
王莉
姚晓凤
沈德垚
刘莉
WANG Jianping;WANG Li;YAO Xiaofeng;SHEN Deyao;LIU Li(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai Belt and Road Joint Laboratory of Textile Intelligent Manufacturing,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China;School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《东华大学学报(自然科学版)》
CAS
北大核心
2023年第5期155-161,共7页
Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science)
基金
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(2232021G-08)
上海市浦江人才计划资助(2020PJC001)
上海市科学技术委员会“科技创新行动计划”“一带一路”国际合作项目(21130750100)
国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点专项(2019YFF0302100)。
关键词
响应曲面
3D凹孔纬编针织物
纺织品设计
保暖性
response surface methodology
3D concave welf-knitted fabric
textile design
warmth retention property