扎滚鲁克出土绞缬织物工艺类型分析

Analysis on the Process Types of Tie-dyed Fabric Unearthed from Zaghunluq

绞缬是具有相同工艺原理多种工艺的总称。以往的研究将其统称为绞缬,缺少对工艺类型的分析与梳理,更出现对工艺的误判。新疆且末县扎滚鲁克古墓地出土了我国已知最早的绞缬织物,呈现出多种流传至今的基本工艺类型。本文以其为研究对象,从基本防染原理出发,结合实验考古试验,进行工艺类型分析。认为其中揽括了“缝”这一类型中“平缝”“折缝”“绕缝”,扎这一类型中的“扎点”“束状捆扎”。这些分析将为古代绞缬工艺体系构建,及古代绞缬工艺的分类研究奠定基础。

Tie-dyeing is a general term for multiple processes with the same process principle.In previous studies,these processes were collectively referred to as tie-dyeing,which was a lack of analysis and organization of process types,and there was even misjudgment of the process.The earliest known Chinese tie-dyed fabrics were unearthed from Zaghunluq Ancient Tomb in Qiemo County,Xinjiang,containing several basic process types.This paper mainly analyzes the process types based on the basic resist-dyeing principle and combining the experimental archaeological test,with these tie-dyed fabrics as the targets.The author thinks these tie-dyed fabrics cover the horizontal stitching,folded cloth stitching and stitching with a circular motion of the needle,which fall into the category of"stitching,as well as the close wound binding and bundle binding,which fall into the category of binding".The analysis will lay a foundation for the construction of the ancient Chinese tiedyeing process system and classified study on ancient Chinese tie-dyeing process.