秋冬经编休闲裤子面料开发

Warp Knitted Casual Pants Fabric Development for Autumn and Winter Seasons

为改善梭织裤子面料下蹲或屈膝时束缚感,文章以5.56~16.67 tex涤纶、8.33~18.22 tex棉纱和5.56~8.33 tex的PBT为原料,采用经绒平、编链+缺垫+经平组合方式开发6款经编秋冬休闲裤子面料。对裤料热湿舒适性、保形性、基本力学性能进行表征,并测试其弹性和起拱回复性能。结果表明,所开发裤料符合日常休闲裤料服用要求,其中以双经平为组织结构,含棉量72.4%,含涤量27.6%的1#面料总抗弯刚度仅有7.61;以双经绒为组织,PBT含量高于35.0%的5#面料、6#面料纵向弹性回复率达80%以上,且起拱残留率均在50%以下,PBT的使用使面料获得更好弹性和更好起拱回复性能。

In order to improve the bondage feeling of woven pants when squatting or bending the knees,using 5.56~16.67 tex polyester,8.33~18.22 tex cotton yarn and 5.56~8.33 tex PBT as raw materials,six kinds of warp knitted autumn and winter used casual trousers fabrics were developed by the combination of reverse locknit,pillar+miss-lapping+tricot.The thermal and wet comfort,shape retention and basic mechanical properties of the developed trousers fabrics were characterized,and their elasticity and buckling recovery properties were tested.The results show that the developed trousers fabrics can meet the requirements of daily casual pants.The total bending stiffness of fabric 1#with two bar tricot(72.4%cotton and 27.6%polyester)is only 7.61 mN/cm.With two bar cord lap as the organization,the longitudinal elastic recovery rate of fabrics 5#and 6#with PBT content higher than 35.0%has reached more than 80%and the buckling residue rate is below 50%,and the use of PBT has made the fabric obtain better elasticity and better buckling recovery performance.