清代西藏地方“珍宝服饰”及其保管使用制度

On the Preservation and Utilization Systems of Jewel-decorated Costumes in Xizang in the Qing Dynasty

“珍宝服饰”作为清代西藏地方宫廷礼俗活动的重要载体,选材讲究、样式独特,具有极高的工艺水平,展演时有极特殊的视觉效果,外形特征和所具内涵皆与西藏传统服饰有较大差别。珍宝服饰每次使用时都要遵循严格的出入流程,《珍宝服饰清册》是珍宝服饰交接、修订和补充的重要依据,相关物件从17世纪起一直保存于布达拉宫。本文系统介绍了布达拉宫所藏珍宝服饰的种类、样式与材质,严格的保管制度与清册编纂情况,对厘清珍宝服饰的特征、宫藏制度与文化内涵具有重要意义。

As an important carrier of local court etiquette and customs in Xizang in the Qing dynasty,"Rin chen rgyan cha"(the jewel-decorated costumes)are exquisite in material selection,unique in style,and have a very high level of craftsmanship.They have exceptional visual effects during performances,and their appearance features and connotations are quite different from the traditional Tibetan costumes.The jewel-decorated costumes must follow strict procedures of condition checking every time they are used.The Jewel-decorated Costume Inventory recorded the handover,revision,and supplement details of the costumes kept in the Potala Palace since the 17th century.This article systematically introduces the types,styles,and materials of jewel-decorated costumes stowed in the Potala Palace.The strict preservation system and the compilation of the inventory are of great significance for clarifying the characteristics and cultural connotations of the costumes,as well as the palace's collection system.