仿朦胧感面料的开发

Development of imitating hazy fabric

设计合适的组织、纱线、经纬纱密度及纹样,织造了4种不同仿朦胧效果的双层织物。结果表明:表组织选用平纹、透孔等组织,里组织选用平纹组织,采用表里接结或表里换层的方式连接上下两层,表里经纬纱排列比为1∶2或相同,同时选用合适线密度、捻度及材质的经纬纱及经纬纱密度,所织造的织物具有良好的仿朦胧效果。仿朦胧感面料应选用低线密度的经纬纱,表里层经纬纱细度可相同,但经纬纱密度要小,同时表层应选用透孔组织。如果表里经纬纱排列比不同,如1∶2,则此时表层经纬纱线密度可比里层经纬纱线密度略大,但表里经纬纱密度不宜过大。如果表层经纬纱线密度比里层小,表组织可采用平纹、透孔组织,但同样经纬纱密度不宜过大。材质上应选择初始模量小的纤维或高捻度纱线。

Four kinds of double-layer fabrics with different hazy effect are woven by designing appropriate weave,yarn,warp and weft yarn density and pattern.The results show that the plain weave and mesh weave are selected for the surface weave,and the plain weave is selected for the inner weave.The upper and lower layers are connected by the way of surface to inner knot or surface to inner layer change.The arrangement ratio of the warp and weft yarns on the surface and inside is 1:2 or the same.At the same time,the warp and weft yarns with appropriate linear density,twist and material and the appropriate density of the warp and weft yarns are selected,and the woven fabrics have good imitation hazy effect.It is considered that low linear density warp and weft yarn should be selected for the development of imitated hazy fabric.The fineness of warp and weft yarn in the surface and inner layers can be the same,but the density of warp and weft yarn should be smaller.At the same time,the surface layer should be selected with mesh weave.If the arrangement ratio of surface and inner warp and weft yarns is different,such as 1:2,the fineness of surface warp and weft yarns can be slightly higher than that of inner warp and weft yarns,but the density of surface and inner warp and weft yarns should not be too large.If the fineness of warp and weft yarns on the surface layer is smaller than that on the inner layer,the plain weave and mesh weave can be used for the surface weave,but the density of warp and weft yarns should not be too large.Materials should choose fiber with small initial modulus or high twist yarn.