基于平纹变化组织的配色模纹麻织物设计

Color effect hemp fabric design based on plain derivative weave

为了更好地理解配色模纹与织物组织之间的关系,拓宽小提花织物的花型种类及适用范围,设计了经重平、纬重平和方平3种以平纹变化组织为基础的配色模纹图,分别采用不同线密度和相同线密度的经纬纱进行试织。结果表明:当色纱排列相同时,织物组织不同形成的配色模纹不同;方平和重平组织同属于平纹变化组织,因而织物配色模纹图案中存在不同风格的同时也具备相似的部分;在相同配色模纹图中,线密度不同导致织物实物花型的差异性;小样试织得到的织物显示的图案除了受到织物组织的影响外,还受到线密度和织物密度等因素的影响,配色模纹设计为设计者提供了更广泛的配色模纹织物设计思路。

In order to better understand the relationship between color effect and fabric weare,broaden the pattern types and application range of small jacquard fabric,three kinds of color effects based on plain derivative weave were designed,the three kinds of fabric weave mainly include warp rib weave,weft rib weave and basket weave.The same and different sizes of yarns were used for trial weaving.The results show that when the color yarns are arranged unchanged,different fabric weave will form different color effects.The weave used in the design belong to plain derivative weave,therefore,the color effects of basket weave and rib weave have different styles,and similar parts,too;The differences of yarn sizes also lead to the differences of fabric appearance patterns in the same color effect figure.The weaving fabric sample show that the fabric picture is not only affected by the fabric weave,but also by the yarn sizes and fabric density.The design of color effect also provides a new idea for designers to form more and more extensive fabric effects through the matching of color effect and weave structure.