“同源异构”——楚绣和汉绣的艺术特征对比研究

“Homology and heterogeneity”: A comparative study on the artistic characteristicsof Chu embroidery and Han embroidery

同属荆楚地区的楚绣和汉绣有着一脉相承的关联性,在地理文化、艺术风格上有着诸多相似之处。但两者常被混为一谈,界定不清晰,亟须对其异同进行解析。文章运用比较艺术学的研究方法,依据荆州博物馆、湖南省博物馆和汉绣专家的珍藏绣品,结合现有绘本图像及相关历史文献资料,重点对楚绣与汉绣的艺术特征进行比较分析。研究表明:汉绣是以楚绣为基础,并吸收多种绣种不断发展完善而成,但两绣在针法工艺、纹样题材、色彩搭配和线条造型等均呈现明显的差异,并透过表象剖析其文化内核、分工体系、用途类别之不同。本文进行多维度、多视角地诠释楚汉刺绣背后异构之处的发展动因和社会价值,翔实地丰富中国刺绣艺术的理论体系,增强对长江古代文明系统的认识与理解。

Chu embroidery and Han embroidery,both from the Jingchu region,have a common thread and many parallels in geography,culture,and creative style.However,due to ambiguous definitions,these two types are frequently mistaken.As a result,in order to provide clarity,it is critical to study their similarities and variances.Chu embroidery and Han embroidery have slightly different creative elements,such as stitch craftsmanship,pattern subject matter,color coordination,line modeling techniques,and so on,which contribute to their own artistic styles.Chu embroidery,an old form of embroidery that originated in the Chu State during the pre-Qin period,is a“past tense”art that displays the historical and cultural heritage shaped by the production background and aesthetic consciousness prevailing at the time.Han embroidery,on the other hand,is a regional kind of needlework that has been passed down through generations among folk communities.It has absorbed numerous influences from diverse schools of thought over time,while still retaining rich local features and reflecting a national style in its current non-material form of embroidered technology.We may highlight their distinctions as well as their distinctive creative traits by conducting a comparison analysis between these two styles of embroidery artistry.We applied comparative art research technique,incorporating resources from the Jingzhou Museum,Hunan Museum,and collections kept by Han embroidery experts.We also incorporated existing pictorial references and historical sources to delve into the artistic aspects of Chu embroidery and Han embroidery,as well as analyzed the growth of their distinctness.According to the research,Han embroidery is derived from Chu embroidery and includes numerous forms of needlework to evolve and refine.However,there are significant differences between the two types of needlework in terms of stitching techniques,pattern themes,color harmonization,and line designs.Chu embroidery uses the classic locking stitch technique in the stitching process,which is widely utilized and dates back to ancient times.In terms of pattern selection,Chu embroidery focuses on dynamic dragon and phoenix motifs,whilst Han embroidery focuses on auspicious patterns inspired by traditional customs.In terms of color coordination,Chu embroidery features vibrant hues with a touch of uniqueness,while Han embroidery favors rich and deep colors that exude vibrancy.As for line designs,Chu embroidery boasts dexterity,vividness,and comfort,whereas Han embroidery embodies simplicity and naturalness despite its occasional clumsiness.We examine the disparities in their cultural essence,division of labor system,and usage categories through their appearances,which serve as the fundamental impetus leading to the divergence of their developmental trajectories.Regarding cultural essence,Chu embroidery centers around witchcraft culture,while Han embroidery revolves around urban culture.In terms of the division of labor,female workers dominate Chu embroidery,whereas male workers lead Han embroidery.As for usage categories,Chu embroidery caters to the bureaucratic class,while Han embroidery pursues a blend of elegance and popular appreciation.Both Chu and Han embroideries possess distinct characteristics that stem from Jingchu culture.The artistic allure and regional charm inherent in Han embroidery products embody local and national features.We interpret the development motivation and social value of the heterogeneity behind Chu and Han embroidery in multiple dimensions and perspectives,enrich the theoretical system of Chinese embroidery art,and enhance the understanding of the ancient civilization system of the Yangtze River.Both of them spread the connotation of Jingchu culture through embroidery art,with the goal of protecting,inheriting,and carrying forward the excellent traditional Chinese culture and highlighting the connotation of casting the consciousness of the Chinese nation community.