单向导湿纬编成形织物的结构设计及其性能

Structural design and performance of unidirectional moisture-transfer weft-knitted forming fabrics

为了解决夏季运动服装穿着出汗后内层潮湿且黏腻的不适感,基于差动毛细效应,选用55.5 dtex(14 f)的涤纶作为地纱,搭配93.3 dtex(384 f)超细纤维涤纶以及92.2 dtex(72 f)常规涤纶作为面纱,应用圣东尼单面无缝机设计了5种不同结构的织物,研究和比较每种组织的单向导湿性能,以及不同结构织物的导湿规律。结果表明:93.3 dtex(384 f)纱线组得到的附加压力差大于92.2 dtex(72 f)纱线组,具有良好的单向导湿能力,水分管理评级均在3级以上;组织结构中,地纱和面纱均成圈的均匀结构数量越多,导湿效果越显著,因此,均匀结构数量多的组织适合配置于出汗量较多的区域;与均匀结构相比,地纱和面纱不全成圈的松散结构轻薄透气,适合配置于过渡区域。

Objective Sweating during summer exercise can easily cause the human body to feel moist and sticky.Therefore,it is important to improve the moisture-wicking capability as well as the heat and humidity comfort of summer sportswear.Sweating and heat dissipation vary from part to part of the body,so different functional fabrics designed in different parts have great benefits for comfort.But the process of sewing fabrics with different characteristics at different positions is complicated and has low production efficiency.Therefore,seamless design and integrated positioning forming technology can be used.Method When the yarn density of the surface layer of the fabric was greater than the inner layer,the additional pressure of the surface layer was greater than that of the inner layer,and the moisture can move from the interior to the surface,which was called the differential capillary effect.Based on this effect,55.5 dtex(14 f)polyester was selected as the ground yarn,and 93.3 dtex(384 f)superfine fiber polyester yarn and 92.2 dtex(72 f)conventional polyester yarn were selected as the veils.Santoni seamless machine was adopted to design 5 different structures of fabrics,then the influence of different yarn types and structures on the fabric′s moisture-transfer was investigated.Results The graph of contact angle changes with time showed that among the three kinds of yarns,the liquid diffuses fastest in 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarns and slowest in 55.5 dtex(14 f)yarns(Fig.4).The wicking height experiment showed that the longitudinal wicking effect of the combination of 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn and 55.5 dtex(14 f)ground yarn was more significant than that of 92.2 dtex(72 f)yarn(Tab.2).The difference between the liquid diffusion shape obtained from the drip diffusion experiment and the longitudinal and transverse wicking was consistent,indicating that the longitudinal diffusion effect of liquid in the fabric was better(Fig.5).The accumulative one-way transfer capacity in the MMT water management experiment was F1>F4>F3>F2>F5 from large to small(Fig.6).The overall moisture management capacity(OMMC)showed that the combined rating of 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn for the veil and 55.5(14 f)dtex(14 f)yarn for the ground was above grade 3,which had better unidirectional moisture-transfer capacity,F1 and F4 have the best moisture-transfer capacity among the two raw materials(Fig.6).The fiber diameters of 55.5 dtex(14 f)yarn,92.2 dtex(72 f)yarn,and 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn measured were 5.448,15.548 and 28.343μm(Tab.4).It was calculated that the equivalent capillary radius of the three yarns were 0.0617,1.7571 and 3.211μm,respectively.It was concluded that the capillary pressure difference between 55.5(14 f)dtex yarn and 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn was 16.6474 kPa,and that between 55.5 dtex yarn and 92.2 dtex(72 f)yarn is 5.2824 kPa.This proved that the differential capillary effect of different f-number yarns was significant.Conclusion The results showed that 93.3 dtex(384 f)yarn had a higher additional pressure difference than the 92.2 dtex(72 f)yarn group.The superfine polyester yarn group had good unidirectional moisture-tranfer capactity,and the water management rating was above grade 3.In the stitches,the more the number of uniform structures in which the ground yarn and the veil were looped,the more significant the moisture-tranfer effect.Therefore,the structure with more uniform structures were suitable for the areas with more sweat.Compared with the uniform structure,the loose structure with an incomplete loop of the ground yarn was light,thin and permeble,which was suitable for configuration in the transition area.Among the five structures,F1 with uniform structure had the best unidirectional moisture-tranfer capacity,which was suitable for areas with large sweating volume,such as the chest and back;F2 and F4 with loose structure had good moisture-tranfer capacity and were suitable for transition structure;F3 and F5 are thin and permeable,suitable for armpit,side,and other positions.