不连肩翘袖结构分析与工艺处理

Structure Analysis and Process Treatment of Non-Raglan Sleeves

通过不连肩翘袖的特点分析,来阐述这类袖子主要是通过肩部分割线的起翘处理来达到翘肩造型的效果。探讨翘肩结构设计的方法和要点,将袖子制版分成翘肩制版和袖子袖身制版两部分。分析肩部不同宽窄分割线设计,在袖身和翘肩部分制版及工艺处理的区别,并通过制版来解决独立翘肩与袖山头缝合过程中拼合部位尖角内陷缺角的弊病。将结构与工艺紧密结合,以实现不连肩翘袖袖身整体美观、精致的效果。

By analyzing the characteristics of non-raglan sleeves,this paper expounds that this kind of sleeves mainly achieve the effect of shoulder lifting pattern through the lifting treatment of shoulder dividing line.The method and key points of shoulder lifting structure design are discussed.The sleeve plate making is divided into shoulder lifting plate making and sleeve and sleeve arm plate making.This paper also analyzes the shoulder dividing line design with different width and the difference in plate processing in the sleeve and shoulder.The defect of the sharp angle of the stitching part of the shoulder and sleeve is solved by plate making.The structure and process are closely combined to achieve the overall beautiful and delicate sleeve effect.