鞋靴跷度形成原因及取跷基本原理研究

Formation Reason of Shoe Stilt and Basic Principle of Warpage

通过剖析楦面不同部位(中部鞍面、后踵椭圆锥面、前头球冠面)曲面特征,及其展平时的扭转变化,揭示了跷度的形成原因。在此基础上进一步探析了鞋楦后踵椭圆锥面、跗腰鞍面、前头球冠面,以及靴楦跗背脚弯处4个不同部位的跷度及处理方法。总结归纳了楦面4个不同部位的取跷原理,以及鞋面5种不同结构的取跷原理,为提高手工取跷精度和效益、开展数字化取跷技术研发提供了十分重要的理论基础。

By analyzing the surface characteristics of different parts of the last(middle saddle surface,back heel elliptic cone,front head crown surface)and their twisting changes,the formation reasons of shoe stilt were revealed.On this basis,the stilt and treatment methods of 4 different parts of the heel elliptic cone of the last,the saddle sur-face of the tarsal waist,the crown surface of the front head and the bend of the foot of the boot last were further inves-tigated.Then the warpage principles of 4 different parts of the last surface and 5 different structures of the shoe upper were summarized,which provided very important basic theory for improving the accuracy and benefit of manual warp-age and the research and development of digital warpage technology.