棉经编纵条纹衬衫织物的开发与性能评价

Development and performance evaluation of cotton warp knitted longitudinal strip shirting fabric

为开发免烫舒适性衬衫,提高衬衫的美观性和舒适度,首先对棉经编衬衫的纵条纹进行分类;其次阐述棉经编纵条纹衬衫织物的开发工艺,包括形成纵条纹的经编结构、特点及条纹染色工艺;然后开发了3款棉经编衬衫织物,并给出织物的编织参数和成品参数;最后利用灰色近优模型对织物的综合服用性能进行评价。结果表明:3款纵条纹织物图案清晰、线圈平整;其中,采用9.8 tex聚集纺棉纱、5.6 tex普通涤纶DTY和8.3 tex普通涤纶FDY开发的编链组织纵条纹织物的性能最优,为棉经编衬衫织物的图案设计和开发提供理论依据和实践指导。

In order to develop non-iron comfortable shirts and improve the aesthetics and comfort of shirts,the longitudinal pattern of cotton warp knitted shirts is firstly classified;The development process of cotton warp knitted longitudinal shirt fabrics is described,including the warp knitting to form longitudinal strips structure,characteristics and stripe dyeing process;Three cotton warp knitted shirt fabrics are developed,and the weaving parameters and finished fabric parameters of the three fabrics are given;Finally,the gray near-optimal model is used to evaluate the comprehensive wearing performance of the three fabrics.The results show that the patterns of the three longitudinal strip fabrics have clear patterns and flat loops;Among them,the chain weave longitudinal strips developed by using 9.8 tex aggregated spun cotton yarn,5.6 tex ordinary polyester DTY and 8.3 tex ordinary polyester FDY has the best performance,providngi theoretical and practical guidance for pattern design and development of cotton warp knitted shirt fabrics.