接结方式对双面全显色提花织物的呈色影响

Influence of stitching method on color rendering ofdouble-face full-color jacquard fabric

针对分层组合设计模式下由于接结方式的改变造成全显色组织设计的调整现象,是否对双面提花织物表面呈色产生影响的问题,进行双面织物样品色彩实验验证。通过相同组织循环R、组织点加强数E的组合全显色组织和可遮盖全显色组织设计,相同的双面织物参数设置,织造自身接结、附加纬接结、添加附加纬未接结的3组双面织物样品,进行3组织物样品的色彩范围、色彩过渡均匀性和色差对比实验。结果表明:虽然组合全显色组织和可遮盖全显色组织之间2R/E个灰度级差造成接结方式不同时双面提花织物表面的呈色范围具有可接受及更轻微程度的差别,但在色彩过渡均匀性方面并未产生明显影响,并且附加纬接结方式本身也不会对双面提花织物表面色彩产生明显影响,设计师可根据产品需要自由选择接结方式。

Objective In double-face jacquard fabric design under layered-combination design mode,the weave used in two-layer structure with self-stitching is compound full-color weave,and the one used in two-layer structure with central weft stitching is covered full-color weave.Grayscale difference exists between the two full-color weaves,and the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric is determined by the grayscale of full-color weave.Whether the color expression of double-face jacquard fabric will be influenced by stitching methods is the main problem in this paper.The purpose is to provide fabric designers with a better choice of stitching methods.Method 3 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with self-stitching,central weft stitching,and central weft non-stitching were produced under the same technical specification,including yarn thickness,color,and yarn density on both sides of the fabric.The compound full-color weave and the covered full-color weave were designed with the same weave repeat(R)and enhancement of weave points(E)to ensure the test comparability.The fabrics were then tested for color influence by the color range,color transition uniformity and color differences.Results There were 2R/E gray level differences between the compound full-color weave and covered full-color weave.On the fabrics,taking the 6 landmark lines with monochromatic gradient and two-color gradient as an example(Fig.4),the color ranges of the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics with self-stitching and central weft stitching were slightly different.The color range differences between the 2 sets of fabric samples are shown in Tab.4 and Tab.5.All of the differences were in either acceptable or similar range.In terms of color transition,24 landmark lines were among the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples,and the R2 values of the fitted lines of relevant color values were all greater than 0.7(Tab 6),with 18 of them greater than 0.9.That indicates that the face and back the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabrics have a uniform transition,namely,the stitching methods have almost no influence on the color transition of double-face jacquard fabrics.In terms of the color difference on the fabric surface,the color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the fabric samples with self-stitching and central weft stitching(Tab.7 and Tab.8).The average color difference value of the face side was 3.10,and the average color difference value of the back side was 4.11,both of which were within the acceptable range.The color difference values of corresponding color blocks were calculated between the 2 sets of double-face jacquard fabric samples with central weft stitching and central weft non-stitching(Tab.9 and Tab.10).The average color difference values of the face and back sides were 1.48 and 0.77 respectively,which represent slight influences.It suggests that the central weft stitching method itself has slight influence on color rendering on the face and back sides of the double-face full-color jacquard fabric.Conclusion To sum up,there is an acceptable or slight color range difference on the double-face jacquard fabric surface with different stitching methods.It has no significant influence on the uniformity of color transition,and the central weft stitching method does not have significant color influence on double-face jacquard fabrics.This indicates that designers have the freedom to choose the stitching method according to the product needs.