明代后妃嘉礼服饰述论

On the Ritual Dress of the Queens and Imperial Concubines in Ming Dynasty

明朝开国不久后便加紧了对于礼制与服饰的变革,在洪武时期便已形成一套完整的礼服制度。经过永乐时期的进一步细化,后妃礼服的功能性以及“明等级、辨尊卑”的作用得到加强。通过出土文物及流传下来的画像与文献记载的对比,明代后妃嘉礼服饰在实际应用中与文献记载有所不同,政令法度的松弛、社会经济的发展等因素皆促成了嘉礼服饰的改变。

Soon after the founding of Ming Dynasty,the reform of the ritual system and clothing was intensified,and a complete dress system was formed in the Hongwu period.After further refinement in the Yongle period,the function of the empress dress and its role of“grading and ranking”were strengthened.Comparing the unearthed objects and the portraits handed down with the literature records,the practical ritual dresses of the queen and the imperial concubines in the Ming Dynasty were different from that recorded in the historical documents.The relaxation of the government order and law,the development of social economy and other factors all contributed to the change of the ritual dress.