宋代官服中绶带纹样探析

An analysis of ribbon patterns in official clothing of the Song Dynasty

宋代受到传统儒家思想的影响、程朱理学思想的制约,宋代等级制度更为森严,因此宋代官服品类繁多、等级鲜明。本文以宋代官员所佩绶带为研究对象,梳理并归纳了宋代不同时期“锦绶”的使用制度,分析纹样特点,深入探究其由表象到内隐所传递的文化内涵。研究表明:该绶带是显现权责之饰物,以外显、内隐的方式体现了朝政官员对等级秩序的认同、对吉祥蕴意的渴望及对官位荣誉的追求。本文研究成果有助于完善宋代等级秩序信息的承传,还原宋代官场生活、审美等方面的本来面貌,以期对绶带纹样有更为深入的了解和认识。

Ribbons,as an ornament worn by officials in the Song Dynasty,not only recorded the real face of official life in the Song Dynasty,but also carried the historical memory of social development in the Song Dynasty.The rank of the officials in the Song Dynasty can be distinguished by the different brocade patterns on the ribbons they wore.Therefore,the ribbon patterns of official clothing in the Song Dynasty are of great value to study the hierarchical system of official clothing,social ideology and artistic characteristics of Song brocade.Based on ancient documents and fabric image data,this paper made an in-depth analysis of the evolution of official clothing ribbons in the Song Dynasty,the characteristics of their patterns and the cultural implications.Three major important conclusions were drawn.First,the ribbon was an ornament to show the power and responsibility of officials.Initially,officials determined the crowns and ribbons according to the level and divided them into three grades.During the Kangding period,the clothing system was revised again.With the joining of Fangsheng brocade,the ribbons were divided into fourth grades.In the second year of Yuanfeng,to unify official names and positions,and balance rights and responsibility,the crowns and ribbons were determined according to official positions,so the Song Dynasty clothing system tended to be mature and stable.Second,the ribbons were used to identify the rank of officials according to their different brocade patterns.Influenced by the traditional social order and neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty,the ribbon patterns not only had the beauty of harmony,unity,symmetry and balance,but also had the beauty of continuous repetition and moderate contrast rhythm,with high artistic value.Third,as a symbol of the traditional hierarchical order,the ribbons conveyed changing ideas in an explicit or implicit way.They were conducive to the safeguarding of national governance and the continuation of the inherent hierarchical order,satisfied the pursuit and desire of officials for their status,and were easy to cultivate good self-drive morality of officials,thus enhancing the cohesion of the ruling team and safeguarding the long-term stability of the country.This paper systematically and deeply collected,collated and analyzed the evolution of the ribbons worn in official clothing of the Song Dynasty,clarified the names,users and scope of application of the ribbon patterns,summarized the artistic characteristics and cultural implications of the ribbon patterns.It is helpful to improve the inheritance of hierarchical order information in the Song Dynasty,restore the original appearance of official life,ideology and aesthetic expression in the Song Dynasty,and have a deeper understanding of the ribbon patterns,which has certain reference value for exploring the hierarchical system of official clothing in the Song Dynasty.With the change of dynasties and the development of the times,ribbons no longer have the function of highlighting the status of the wearer and conveying the value of honor,but the meaning of happiness and health contained in them has been loved by people until now,and is widely used in modern textile pattern design.