化妆品去角质效果评价方法研究进展

Research progress of evaluation methods for exfoliating effect of cosmetics

皮肤角质层是表皮最为重要的组成结构,角质层太厚或太薄都会引起皮肤健康问题,因此化妆品去角质效果的全面、多维度的评价非常必要。《化妆品分类规则和分类目录》中对去角质的释义为有助于促进皮肤角质的脱落或促进角质的更新。从皮肤角质层的结构及其功能出发,详细介绍了脱落角质的测试方法、角质更新时间的追踪方法以及皮肤角质层表面和内部状态的评价方法,其中皮肤角质层状态评估方式又可以分为图像分析、仪器数据采集分析和主观评价3种方式,并且展望了化妆品去角质效果的评价体系的新发展方向。

The stratum corneum is the most important structure of the epidermis,and its thickness has a direct impact on skin health.Due to individual differences in skin type and stratum corneum thickness,a comprehensive and multidimensional evaluation of the effectiveness of exfoliation is necessary for cosmetics.The"Classification Rules and Catalogue of Cosmetics"defines exfoliation as something that promotes the shedding or renewal of keratin.Based on the structure and functions of stratum corneum,the methods for testing the shedding of keratin,tracking the renewal time of keratin,and evaluating the surface and internal states of stratum corneum were introduced in detail.The evaluation of the state of stratum corneum could be classified into three methods:image analysis,instrumental data acquisition analysis,and subjective evaluation.The new development direction of the evaluation system for the effectiveness of exfoliating cosmetics was also prospected.