“穿”行于田野:民族服饰考察中的“身体经验”与“具身体验”

“Wearing”in the Field:“Physical Experience”and“Embodied Experience”in the Investigation of Ethnic Costumes

在以民族服饰为考察对象的田野调查中,除了对民族服饰本体的记录和考察外,“身体经验”与“具身体验”也是民族服饰田野调查重要的参与观察要素与维度,更是全面理解民族服饰“地方知识”的关键细节补充。本文从民族服饰研究与田野调查的关系出发,结合人类学身体理论路径,分析在民族服饰研究中如何借用参与观察方法探索他者的身体经验,探讨文化实践研究者的身体参与和具身体验如何作为民族服饰文化符号的辅助分析手段,深描与身体有关的、被文化包裹着的服饰艺术实践意义。

In the fieldwork of ethnic costumes,in addition to the records and investigations of the ethnic costumes themselves,“physical experience”and“embodied experience”are important observation elements and dimensions for the fieldwork of ethnic costumes,and are the key detail supplementation for a comprehensive understanding of the“local knowledge”of the investigated ethnic costumes.Starting from the relationship between ethnic costume research and fieldwork,combining with the body theory path of anthropology,this article analyzes how to explore the other's physical experience by using the method of participation and observation in the research of ethnic costumes,mainly explores how the physical participation and embodied experience of cultural practice researchers can be used as an auxiliary means of analyzing the cultural symbols of ethnic costumes,and deeply describes the practical significance of costume arts related to body and wrapped by culture.