身体皮肤色素沉着的常见成因及化妆品原料的应用现状

Common Causes of Body Skin Pigmentation and Application of Cosmetic Ingredients

综述了身体皮肤色素沉着的常见成因及其机制,以及被证实有助于改善皮肤色素沉着的化妆品原料及其作用原理。身体皮肤色素沉着的常见成因包括紫外线照射、皮肤炎症、机械摩擦、激素变化以及疾病和药物诱导。目前被证实可以改善皮肤色素沉着的化妆品原料按照其作用原理可分为消耗黑色素底物、减少酪氨酸酶生成、降低酪氨酸酶活性、抑制黑色素小体传递、促进黑色素小体降解、抗氧化和抗炎。今后在开发针对身体皮肤色素沉着的化妆品时,可依据相应部位皮肤色素沉着的成因,同时结合原料的作用机理,实现多靶点综合改善身体皮肤色素沉着的问题。

This review summarized the common causes of body skin pigmentation and their mechanisms,as well as cosmetic ingredients and their mechanisms that help improve skin pigmentation.Common causes of skin pigmentation on the body include UV,skin inflammation,mechanical friction,hormonal changes,and disease and drug induction.Cosmetic ingredients that help to improve skin pigmentation can be classified by their mechanisms as consumption of melanin substrates,reducing tyrosinase production,decreasing tyrosinase activity,inhibiting melanosome transport,promoting melanosome degradation,antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.In the future,when developing cosmetic products for body skin pigmentation,the causes of skin pigmentation in the corresponding areas can be combined with the mechanisms of the ingredients to achieve a multi-targeted comprehensive improvement of the body skin pigmentation.