都兰凤鸟刺绣袍服研究

Study on Dulan Embroidered Robe

青海都兰地区出土的两件红地凤鸟刺绣袍服从外观风格上与战国中晚期马山楚墓服饰极其相近,推测或为同时期文物,战国时期距今年代久远,其时期存世的纺织品较为稀少,因此都兰凤鸟刺绣袍服有较高的研究价值。文章以两件刺绣纺织文物为研究对象,对文物样本进行详尽的数据采集及整理,并将其与江陵马山一号墓出土的N7、N10及N14纺织文物进行对比,从服装形制、纹样色彩、质地及结构方面对刺绣袍服进行深入的探讨性分析,论述刺绣袍服为马山楚墓同时期楚袍。袍服形制上,交领右衽、直裾、袖平直短且口宽,上衣下裳连属式,领袖有较宽的缘边,下裳为九片裁片拼接;纹样为通身为楚风格为对凤对龙纹,与马山楚墓出土的N7以及N14纹样几乎相同;质地为细绢,锁绣工艺,根据工艺的精细程度较马山楚墓纺织品要低。

Two red Chinese embroidered robes depicting phoenix birds were unearthed in the Dulan region of Qinghai Province.These robes exhibit striking similarities in their external appearance to the garments found in the Mashan Chu-state tomb of the late Warring States period.It is speculated that these artifacts are contemporaneous as the Warring States period dates back a long time,and surviving textiles from that era are relatively rare.Therefore,both embroidered robes from Dulan hold significant research value.This study focuses on the analysis of these two embroidered textile relics.Data collection and organization of the samples were thoroughly conducted.These relics were then compared with the textile relics excavated from the N7,N10,and N14 textile relics of Mashan No.1 Tomb in Jiangling.Through further exploratory analysis of garment style,patterns,colors,texture,and structure,this study argues that the Dulan relics are contemporaneous Chu-state robes from the Mashan tomb.Both garments exhibit distinct features,such as diagonally crossed collars with the left crossing over the right,straight lapels,and short sleeves with wide openings.The upper part of the garment is connected to the lower skirt,and the collar and sleeves have wide decorative borders.The lower skirt is spliced using nine cut pieces.Additionally,the robes display Chustyle patterns of phoenix and dragon pairs that closely resemble those found on the N7 and N14 textiles from the Mashan Chu-state tomb.The fabric is fine silk,and the embroidery technique employed is lock-stitching.However,the level of their craftsmanship appears to be lower compared to the textiles from the Mashan Chu-state tomb.