《急就篇》中“青绮绫縠靡润鲜,绨络缣练素帛蝉”纺织句章的辨析

Analysis of the Textile Sentences and Chapters of"Qing Qi Ling Hu Fei Xian Run,Ti Luo Jian Lian Su Bo Chan"in Ji-Jiu-Pian

《急就篇》中“青绮绫縠靡润鲜,绨络缣练素帛蝉”纺织句章记载了丰富的织物及纺织工艺信息。但由于史料信息的局限性,对于这些信息从古到今仍存在着一些错误的解读。文章通过对各代的相关解读,进行文献考据和文物实证相结合的二维互证法复盘研究,研究认为:第一,绮与绫两者都为斜纹织物,从结构上看绮是具有特殊结构的丝织物,它是汉代社会阶级地位的重要标志之一。縠在现代纺织中被定义为纱的一种,在汉代縠是经过通过强捻的纱线受潮后产生绉缩,然后放入水中浸泡而收缩起皱,形成的一种绉纱,深受上层阶级喜爱。绨的历史悠久,它是一种质地粗糙厚重的织物,随着锦的出现绨织物在发展中被代替。素织物是最早出现的织物品种之一,和绢、纨在外形结构上相似,但实际上可能是一种麻织成的未经练染的平纹织物。第二,汉代是纺织技艺发展成熟的重要时期,络丝技艺及练治技艺在汉代基本定型。络作为纺织技艺涉及生丝、络丝及络车三种解读。三者都是络丝工序中的重要工序,在汉代壁画中多有出现,女性是络丝工艺的主体,并且在汉代络丝技术定型,后世络车及络丝工艺基本保持汉代形态。练,可指代经过练治的布帛,也可指练治工艺,对纤维进行加工脱胶,使其变得柔软的过程,有三种方式:沤渍法、水洗法、灰治法,并在过程中加入碱性溶液,使布帛变得柔软且具有光泽。第三,青与现代色彩学中的青色不同,受印染方式影响,青最开始从矿物中提取,形成蓝色或绿色,随着植物印染的发展青色采用马蓝、蓝草等植物,形成颜色较深的深蓝紫色,并用栗子壳、莲子壳等植物印染,还可形成颜色较深的黑色;由于受阴阳五行、道家及道教思想影响,青被赋予了特殊的等级含义,成为汉代天子的祭祀之服,广泛应用于汉代织物中,但随着青色印染的普及成熟,青色开始走向合乎民用,东汉时期演变成为身份低微的代表。

The textile verse in the"Ji Jiu Pian"records rich information about textiles and textile techniques,such as"The green silk and satin are exquisitely smooth and fresh,while the brocade and damask are soft and fine like pure white silk."However,due to the limitations of historical records,there are still some erroneous interpretations of this information from ancient times to the present.This paper conducts a retrospective study using a two-dimensional verification method that combines literary research and archaeological evidence,based on interpretations from various dynasties.The research suggests that:①Both"Qi"and"Ling"are twill-woven fabrics.Structurally,"Qi"is a special type of silk fabric and an important symbol of social status during the Han Dynasty."Hu"is defined as a type of yarn in modern textile terminology.During the Han Dynasty,"Hu"referred to a wrinkled yarn that was produced by soaking tightly twisted yarn in water,causing it to shrink and form wrinkles.This type of wrinkled yarn was highly favored by the upper class."Ti"has a long history and is a rough and heavy fabric.It was gradually replaced by brocade as it developed."Su"fabric is one of the earliest types of woven fabrics.It has a similar appearance and structure to"Juan"and"Wan",but in reality,it may be an undyed plain weave fabric made of flax.②The Han Dynasty was an important period of mature development in textile craftsmanship.The techniques of silk spinning and silk reeling were essentially established during this time."Luo"is a term related to textile craftsmanship,including the production of raw silk,silk reeling,and silk weaving.These three processes are crucial in the process of silk production and are often depicted in Han Dynasty murals.Women were the main practitioners of silk reeling,and the techniques of silk reeling and silk weaving remained relatively unchanged throughout the Han Dynasty and subsequent periods."Lian"can refer to fabrics that have undergone special treatment,as well as the process of treating fibers to remove sericin and make them soft.There are three methods of fiber treatment:microbial degumming,ash degumming,and alkali degumming,which involve the addition of alkaline solutions to make the fabric soft and lustrous.③The color"Qing"in modern color theory is different from its usage in ancient times.Influenced by dyeing techniques,"Qing"originally referred to blue or green pigments extracted from minerals.With the introduction of plant-based dyeing,such as using indigo and bluegrass,a darker blue-purple color was achieved.Additionally,dyeing with materials like chestnut shells and lotus seeds could produce a darker black color.Moreover,influenced by the concepts of Yin and Yang,the Five Elements,and Taoism,"Qing"was endowed with special hierarchical meanings.It became the ceremonial attire for the emperor in the Han Dynasty and was widely used in Han Dynasty textiles.However,as the popularity and maturity of"Qing"dyeing spread,it began to be used by the general population.During the Eastern Han period,it became associated with lower social status.